🔧 WhatWrench· tools for any car, any jobAll tool listsTry the app free

Tools you need for alternator on a 2009-2018 Ram 1500

Moderate · 1-2 hours (3-4 hours on 3.0 EcoDiesel) · Updated 2026-09-28
Must-have tools
  1. 15 mm socket, 3/8 in drive
  2. 13 mm socket/wrench for B+ nut
  3. Serpentine belt tensioner tool or long 1/2 in breaker bar
  4. 10 mm socket for battery terminal
  5. 3/8 in ratchet and extensions

On the DS Ram 1500 this is one of the friendlier charging-system jobs, at least with the 5.7 Hemi or early 4.7 V8. The alternator sits high on the passenger side front of the engine, you release the automatic belt tensioner with a breaker bar, pull two 15 mm bolts and a 13 mm battery-cable nut, and the unit lifts straight out. Budget an hour the first time.

The 3.6 Pentastar and the 3.0 EcoDiesel are a different story: the alternator is much lower, the belt tensioner has little swing room, and you will want the truck on stands with the lower splash shield off. The mistake people make most often is over-tightening the B+ output stud nut - it only needs about 10 ft-lb, and cranking it down snaps the stud out of a brand-new alternator. The second most common mistake is replacing a good alternator when the real fault is a corroded battery cable, a bad engine-to-body ground, or the TIPM.

Which store near you has these? WhatWrench checks the shelves at your nearest auto parts and hardware stores.Find them near me

Complete tool and parts list

ItemType
Socket set, metric
3/8 in drive, 8-19 mm shallow and deep
Covers battery, mounting, bracket and terminal fasteners.
Requiredshop
Ratchet
3/8 in drive with 3, 6 and 12 in extensions
Reaching the lower mounting bolt and tensioner from above or below.
Requiredshop
Socket
10 mm, 3/8 in drive
Battery negative terminal clamp bolt and small brackets.
Requiredshop
Socket / wrench
13 mm, 3/8 in drive (some trucks 10 mm)
Removes the nut on the alternator B+ output stud.
Requiredshop
Socket
15 mm 6-point, 3/8 in drive
Alternator mounting bolts and the belt tensioner pulley bolt head.
Requiredshop
Breaker bar
1/2 in drive, 18-24 in, or serpentine belt tool
Swings the automatic belt tensioner to release the belt.
Requiredshop
Serpentine belt tool kit
Low-profile belt tool with 15 mm crowfoot / socket set
Needed on 3.6 Pentastar and EcoDiesel where there is no room for a breaker bar.
Recommendedshop
Torque wrench
3/8 in drive, 10-80 ft-lb
Sets mounting bolts and the B+ nut correctly in aluminum brackets.
Requiredshop
Swivel / wobble extension
3/8 in drive wobble set
Angled access to the rear alternator bolt behind the belt.
Recommendedshop
Trim / pry tool set
Plastic
Releases the push-tab field connector without breaking it.
Recommendedshop
Jack and jack stands
2.5 ton minimum
3.6 Pentastar and EcoDiesel alternators are reached from below.
Requiredshop
7 mm socket or flat screwdriver
7 mm for hose-clamp style screws
Moving coolant hoses or air box tubing out of the way.
Recommendedshop
Multimeter
DC volts, 20 V range
Confirms the old unit is bad and verifies 13.5-14.7 V after install.
Recommendedshop
Alternator
160 A or 220 A depending on engine/trim; EcoDiesel may have dual
The replacement unit; match amperage and connector.
Partsshop
Serpentine belt
Engine-specific, check length
Replace while it is off if it is glazed or cracked.
Partsshop
Battery terminal / contact cleaner
Electrical contact cleaner
Cleans the B+ stud and ring terminal for a low-resistance connection.
Consumablesshop
Dielectric grease
Small tube
Protects the field connector and B+ terminal from corrosion.
Consumablesshop
Safety glasses

Debris falls from the engine bay while working overhead.
Safetyshop
Mechanic's gloves

Tight metal edges around the alternator bracket.
Safetyshop

Differences within the 2009-2018 generation

5.7 Hemi and 4.7 V8: alternator high on the passenger side, two M10 bolts, 15 mm, all accessible from above; tensioner takes a 15 mm socket or 1/2 in breaker bar. 3.6 Pentastar: three 15 mm bolts, alternator lower on the engine, removed downward, and the tight tensioner usually needs a dedicated low-profile serpentine belt tool. 3.0 EcoDiesel: 13 mm and 15 mm fasteners, lowest and hardest access, lower splash shield must come off, and some trucks are fitted with a second alternator.

Torque specs

Alternator mounting bolts (M10, 5.7 Hemi / 4.7 V8)40 ft-lb (54 Nm) - verify in the service manual
Alternator mounting bolts (3.6 Pentastar)verify in the service manual
B+ output stud nutabout 10 ft-lb (13 Nm) - verify in the service manual
Belt tensioner assembly bolt (if removed)verify in the service manual
Battery negative terminal clampabout 5 ft-lb (7 Nm)

How the job goes

  1. Park on level ground, set the parking brake and let the engine cool; a hot exhaust manifold sits right under the alternator on the V8s.
  2. Disconnect the battery negative cable with a 10 mm socket and tuck it aside so it cannot spring back onto the post. The battery is under the hood on the driver's side (some trims also have a second battery or a battery in the fender area on diesels).
  3. Photograph the serpentine belt routing, or note the diagram on the fan shroud.
  4. Release the belt: put the breaker bar or belt tool on the automatic tensioner (15 mm bolt head or 1/2 in square drive depending on engine), rotate to unload it, and slip the belt off the alternator pulley. Let the tensioner back down slowly.
  5. On 3.6 Pentastar and 3.0 EcoDiesel, raise the front of the truck, support it on stands and remove the plastic splash shield / air deflector for access from below. On the 5.7 and 4.7 you can work entirely from above.
  6. Pull back the rubber boot on the B+ stud, remove the 13 mm nut (10 mm on some units) and lift the heavy charge cable off the stud. Keep the nut - some new alternators do not include one.
  7. Unplug the field/regulator connector by pressing the release tab; use a plastic pick if it is stiff rather than pulling the wires.
  8. Remove the 15 mm mounting bolts (two on most V8s, plus a lower through-bolt on some builds; the Pentastar uses three). Note bolt lengths - they differ.
  9. Work the alternator out. On the Hemi it lifts straight up; on the Pentastar and EcoDiesel it comes out downward, sometimes after loosening a coolant hose bracket or the lower A/C line clamp.
  10. Compare the new unit to the old: pulley diameter, connector style, amperage rating and stud size must match. Transfer any spacers or bushings.
  11. Set the new alternator in place, start all bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading the aluminum bracket, then torque evenly.
  12. Clean the B+ ring terminal and stud, install the cable, torque the nut lightly (do not over-tighten - the stud will spin or snap), seat the boot, and reconnect the field connector with a dab of dielectric grease.
  13. Reinstall the belt following your photo, routing it over the alternator pulley last while holding the tensioner off. Verify the belt is centered in every pulley groove.
  14. Reinstall shields, lower the truck, reconnect the battery and torque the clamp.
  15. Start the engine and check charging voltage at the battery: 13.5-14.7 V at idle with lights on. Drive 15-20 minutes so the PCM relearns the new alternator's output and the battery state of charge settles.

Watch out

The 15 mm mounting bolts and 13 mm B+ nut cover the vast majority of DS Ram 1500s, but stud nut size varies between 10 mm and 13 mm by alternator supplier and torque figures should be confirmed against a FSM or AllData entry for your exact year and engine.

Frequently asked

Do I need to reprogram the PCM after replacing the alternator on a Ram 1500?

No flash programming is required for a like-for-like alternator. Disconnecting the battery clears the PCM's battery-state learn, and a 15-20 minute drive lets it recalibrate charging output; if you install a different amperage rating than the factory unit a shop scan tool can be used to confirm configuration.

Where is the alternator on a 5.7 Hemi Ram 1500?

Front passenger side of the engine, mounted high on the accessory bracket above the A/C compressor. You can see it as soon as you open the hood and it comes out from above with a 15 mm socket and a 3/8 in ratchet.

Can I replace the alternator without removing the serpentine belt?

No. The belt runs over the alternator pulley, so you must unload the automatic tensioner and slip the belt off. Take a photo of the routing first, or use the diagram on the fan shroud.

How do I know the alternator is bad and not the battery or TIPM?

With the engine running, battery voltage should read 13.5-14.7 V; under 13 V with the engine at idle points to charging failure. Before buying an alternator, load test the battery, inspect the B+ cable end and engine ground strap for corrosion, and check for TIPM-related charging codes, which are common on this generation.

Other jobs on the 2009-2018 Ram 1500

Oil ChangeFront Brake Pads and RotorsRear Brake Pads and RotorsBattery ReplacementSpark Plug ReplacementStarter ReplacementCoolant FlushSerpentine Belt ReplacementTire RotationHeadlight Bulb ReplacementWiper Blade ReplacementThermostat ReplacementFront Strut ReplacementCabin Air Filter ReplacementEngine Air Filter ReplacementTransmission Fluid ChangeFront Wheel Bearing ReplacementOxygen Sensor ReplacementWater Pump Replacement

Alternator Replacement on other vehicles

2015-2020 Ford F-1502021-2024 Ford F-1502014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 15002019-2024 Chevrolet Silverado 15002019-2024 Ram 15002012-2017 Toyota Camry2018-2024 Toyota Camry2014-2019 Toyota Corolla2020-2024 Toyota Corolla2013-2018 Toyota RAV42019-2024 Toyota RAV42005-2015 Toyota Tacoma2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma2016-2021 Honda Civic2022-2024 Honda Civic2013-2017 Honda Accord2018-2022 Honda Accord2012-2016 Honda CR-V2017-2022 Honda CR-V