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Tools you need for starter on a 2009-2018 Ram 1500

Moderate · 1-2 hours (5.7/4.7/3.6); 4-6 hours (3.0 EcoDiesel) · Updated 2026-09-28
Must-have tools
  1. 15 mm socket, 1/2 in drive
  2. 13 mm socket, 3/8 in drive
  3. 3/8 in drive ratchet with extensions
  4. Swivel/wobble extension set
  5. Floor jack and jack stands

On the gas DS Ram 1500 this is one of the friendlier starter jobs out there. The unit bolts to the passenger side of the bellhousing, and with the truck on stands you can usually get both bolts, the B+ cable nut and the signal plug from underneath in about an hour. The only real fight is the upper mounting bolt, which sits behind the exhaust and almost always needs a swivel socket on a long extension.

What varies is the engine. The 4.7, 5.7 and 3.6 are all bottom-side jobs; the 3.0 EcoDiesel is not — its starter lives at the rear top of the engine and intake plumbing has to come off, which turns a one-hour job into most of an afternoon. The thing people get wrong is diagnosis: a click or slow crank on these trucks is very often a corroded battery terminal, a bad main ground or a worn ignition/relay circuit, not the starter itself. Load test the battery and check voltage at the starter B+ stud while cranking before you buy anything.

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Complete tool and parts list

ItemType
Floor jack
2 ton or larger
Lift the truck to reach the starter from below.
Requiredshop
Jack stands
3 ton pair
Support the truck while you work underneath.
Safetyshop
Wheel chocks

Block the rear wheels before lifting.
Safetyshop
Socket set
8, 10, 13, 15, 18 mm, 3/8 in drive
Battery terminal, cable nuts and starter mounting bolts.
Requiredshop
Ratchet
3/8 in drive, plus 1/2 in drive for breaker work
Drive the sockets in tight quarters.
Requiredshop
Extension set
3, 6, 10 in, 3/8 in drive
Reach the upper starter bolt past the exhaust and crossmember.
Requiredshop
Swivel socket / wobble extension
15 mm swivel socket, 3/8 in drive
The upper bellhousing bolt is at an angle and blocked by the exhaust pipe.
Requiredshop
Universal joint adapter
3/8 in drive
Extra articulation if a swivel socket will not clear.
Recommendedshop
Combination wrench set
13 mm and 15 mm
Backup for nuts a socket cannot reach.
Recommendedshop
Torque wrench
3/8 in drive, 10-80 ft-lb
Set starter bolts and battery/cable nuts correctly.
Requiredshop
Trim/panel pry tool
plastic
Release the solenoid signal connector lock without breaking it.
Recommendedshop
Wire brush
small brass/steel
Clean corrosion off the B+ cable eyelet and ground surfaces.
Consumablesshop
Battery terminal cleaner

Clean the battery post and clamp while it is off.
Consumablesshop
Penetrating oil

Free rusted bellhousing bolts on high-mileage trucks.
Consumablesshop
Dielectric grease

Protect the solenoid connector and B+ stud from corrosion.
Consumablesshop
Mechanic's mirror and LED work light

See the upper bolt and cable nut you cannot look at directly.
Recommendedshop
Magnetic pickup tool
telescoping
Retrieve a dropped bolt from the crossmember or bellhousing.
Recommendedshop
Multimeter

Confirm battery voltage, B+ at the starter and signal at crank before replacing parts.
Recommendedshop
Starter motor
Engine-specific: 5.7 Hemi, 4.7 V8, 3.6 Pentastar or 3.0 EcoDiesel
The replacement unit; match by VIN, not just year.
Partsshop
Safety glasses and gloves

Rust and debris fall from the bellhousing area.
Safetyshop
Torx bit socket set
T30-T50
Some skid plates, splash shields and EcoDiesel intake hardware use Torx.
Recommendedshop
3/8 in drive breaker bar

Crack loose seized mounting bolts without wrecking a ratchet.
Recommendedshop

Differences within the 2009-2018 generation

5.7 Hemi, 4.7 V8 and 3.6 Pentastar all place the starter low on the passenger side of the bellhousing with two mounting bolts, generally 15 mm heads (a few use 13 mm or 18 mm — check yours) and a 13 mm B+ cable nut. The 3.0 EcoDiesel starter is mounted high at the rear of the engine and requires removing intake ducting and related components from above, plus Torx bits for some of that hardware. Starter part numbers are not interchangeable between these engines — order by VIN.

Torque specs

Starter mounting bolts to bellhousing (5.7 Hemi / 4.7 V8)about 40 ft-lb (54 Nm) — verify in the service manual
Starter mounting bolts (3.6 Pentastar)verify in the service manual
Solenoid B+ battery cable nutabout 9-11 ft-lb (12-15 Nm) — verify in the service manual
Battery negative terminal clamp nutabout 5 ft-lb (7 Nm) — snug, do not overtighten
Wheel lug nuts (if wheel removed)130 ft-lb (176 Nm)

How the job goes

  1. Park on level ground, set the parking brake, chock the rear wheels and confirm the transmission is in Park.
  2. Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable (usually 10 mm or 13 mm clamp nut); tuck it aside so it cannot spring back onto the post.
  3. Raise the front of the truck with a floor jack at the front crossmember and set jack stands under the frame rails. Never work under a jack alone.
  4. Remove the front skid plate or engine splash shield if fitted (13 mm or 15 mm bolts, some Torx) for access.
  5. Locate the starter: on 5.7 Hemi, 4.7 V8 and 3.6 Pentastar it is low on the passenger side where the engine meets the transmission bellhousing. On the 3.0 EcoDiesel it is high at the rear of the engine and requires removing intake ducting/components from above — follow the factory procedure.
  6. Photograph the wiring. Remove the nut on the solenoid B+ stud (usually 13 mm) and slide the heavy battery cable off, then unplug the small solenoid signal connector by pressing its lock tab.
  7. Spray penetrating oil on both starter mounting bolts and let it soak a few minutes if they look rusty.
  8. Remove the lower mounting bolt, then the upper bolt (typically 15 mm; some applications 13 mm or 18 mm). Use a swivel socket with a long extension for the upper bolt — support the starter so it does not drop when the last bolt comes out.
  9. Work the starter out past the exhaust pipe and crossmember; it may need to be rotated nose-down or turned to clear. Compare old and new units for matching nose depth, bolt spacing and terminal layout.
  10. Clean the mounting pad on the bellhousing and clean the B+ cable eyelet with a wire brush. Check that any alignment shims or dowel sleeves are transferred.
  11. Install the new starter, start both bolts by hand so the nose seats squarely in the bellhousing, then torque to spec. Do not cross-thread into the aluminum bellhousing or block.
  12. Reconnect the solenoid signal plug until it clicks, then fit the B+ cable and torque the nut. Add a light film of dielectric grease.
  13. Refit the splash shield, lower the truck, reconnect the negative battery terminal and torque the clamp nut.
  14. Start the engine. Listen for a clean engage with no grinding or extended crank; a grind usually means an incorrect starter or missing shim.
  15. Idle a minute, then recheck for a warning lamp; some trucks relearn idle after a battery disconnect. Verify no oil or coolant leaks were disturbed near the work area.

Watch out

The 15 mm/13 mm socket sizes and passenger-side gas-engine location are typical for this generation, but bolt heads and torque values vary by engine and production year, so verify the exact size and torque spec against a FSM or Alldata entry for your VIN.

Frequently asked

Where is the starter on a 2013 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi?

It is on the passenger side of the engine, low down where the block meets the transmission bellhousing, just behind and above the exhaust pipe. You access it from underneath the truck after removing the splash shield.

What size socket for Ram 1500 starter bolts?

Most 5.7 Hemi and 4.7 V8 trucks use two 15 mm bolts, with a 13 mm nut on the solenoid B+ stud and a 10 mm or 13 mm battery terminal clamp. Some builds use 13 mm or 18 mm mounting bolt heads, so check before buying tools.

Do I need to remove the exhaust or starter heat shield?

Usually no. The starter clears the exhaust pipe if you rotate it as it comes out, though a swivel socket and long extension are essential for the upper bolt. If a heat shield is fitted, it comes off with one or two 10 mm bolts.

My Ram just clicks — is it always the starter?

No. On these trucks a single loud click with good battery voltage points to the starter solenoid, but rapid clicking usually means a weak battery or corroded terminals, and no click at all can be the relay, ignition switch or TIPM. Check battery voltage under load and voltage at the starter B+ and signal wire while someone cranks.

Other jobs on the 2009-2018 Ram 1500

Oil ChangeFront Brake Pads and RotorsRear Brake Pads and RotorsBattery ReplacementSpark Plug ReplacementAlternator ReplacementCoolant FlushSerpentine Belt ReplacementTire RotationHeadlight Bulb ReplacementWiper Blade ReplacementThermostat ReplacementFront Strut ReplacementCabin Air Filter ReplacementEngine Air Filter ReplacementTransmission Fluid ChangeFront Wheel Bearing ReplacementOxygen Sensor ReplacementWater Pump Replacement

Starter Replacement on other vehicles

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