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Tools you need for starter on a 2014-2019 Toyota Corolla

Moderate · 1.5-3 hours · Updated 2026-09-28
Must-have tools
  1. 14 mm socket, 3/8 in drive
  2. 10 mm socket, 3/8 in drive
  3. Long extensions and swivel/wobble adapter
  4. 12 mm socket or wrench (B terminal nut)
  5. Torque wrench, 3/8 in drive

On the E170 Corolla the starter lives at the back of the 1.8L block against the transaxle bellhousing, hidden under the intake manifold. Nothing about the removal is complicated once you can see it: two 14 mm bolts, one 12 mm terminal nut and a push-on signal connector. The whole job is an access exercise, and most people do it from above after pulling the engine cover and air cleaner box, using long extensions and a swivel. Working from below through the splash shield is the fallback if your arms do not fit.

All versions of this generation use the same 2ZR family engine, so sizes are identical whether you have a 4-speed auto, CVT or 6-speed manual. The mistake people make is replacing the starter when the real problem is a tired battery or a corroded negative cable end, which produces the same single click or slow crank. Test voltage drop first. The second mistake is forcing a mounting bolt that has not lined up because the starter nose is not seated in its pilot bore; seat it flush, then start both bolts by hand.

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Complete tool and parts list

ItemType
Safety glasses

Debris falls from the bellhousing area while working overhead of the starter.
Safetyshop
Floor jack
1.5 ton or larger
Lifts the front of the car if you choose to work from below.
Safetyshop
Jack stands
2 ton pair
Supports the car at the front pinch-weld jack points.
Safetyshop
Socket wrench set
10 mm socket, 3/8 in drive
Battery negative terminal, air cleaner box bolts, wire harness brackets.
Requiredshop
Flat screwdriver
Medium, 6 in
Loosens the intake hose clamp and pops harness clips.
Requiredshop
Plastic trim tool set

Releases the engine cover clips and harness retainers without breaking them.
Recommendedshop
Socket
12 mm 6-point, 3/8 in drive (deep helps)
Removes the nut on the starter B (battery cable) terminal.
Requiredshop
Socket
14 mm 6-point, 3/8 in drive
The two starter-to-block mounting bolts.
Requiredshop
Extension set
3/8 in drive, 3 in / 6 in / 10 in
Reaches the starter bolts past the intake manifold from above.
Requiredshop
Swivel / wobble adapter
3/8 in drive universal joint
Lets the socket reach the rear bolt at an angle in the blind pocket.
Requiredshop
Ratcheting wrench
14 mm
Useful on the upper mounting bolt where a ratchet and extension will not fit.
Recommendedshop
Magnetic pickup tool
Flexible, telescoping
Retrieves the mounting bolts or terminal nut if dropped into the bellhousing area.
Recommendedshop
Inspection mirror or bore light

Lets you see the starter terminals and bolt heads behind the manifold.
Recommendedshop
Torque wrench
3/8 in drive, 10-80 ft-lb
Sets the mounting bolts and terminal nut to spec in aluminum-adjacent threads.
Requiredshop
Wire brush
Small brass/steel
Cleans corrosion off the battery cable eyelet and starter terminal.
Consumablesshop
Electrical contact cleaner
Aerosol
Cleans the S-terminal connector and cable lug.
Consumablesshop
Dielectric grease
Small tube
Protects the S-terminal connector and B-terminal after reassembly.
Consumablesshop
Starter motor
Toyota 28100-0T050 / -0T060 family for 2ZR-FE/FAE (confirm by VIN)
The replacement unit; reman or new OE-equivalent.
Partsshop
Multimeter

Confirms battery voltage and voltage drop so you do not replace a good starter.
Recommendedshop
12V memory saver
OBD-II or cigarette lighter type
Keeps radio presets and idle learn while the battery is disconnected.
Recommendedshop

Differences within the 2014-2019 generation

Both the 2ZR-FE and the Valvematic 2ZR-FAE (LE Eco) use the same starter mounting and fastener sizes: 14 mm bolts, 12 mm B-terminal nut. Only the intake plumbing you remove for access differs slightly between trims, and Valvematic cars have a bit more clutter on the head to work around. Transmission choice (4-speed auto, CVT, 6MT) does not change the tooling.

Torque specs

Starter mounting bolts to block (M10)27 ft-lb (37 Nm)
Starter B terminal nut87 in-lb (9.8 Nm)
Battery negative terminal nut53 in-lb (6 Nm)
Wheel lug nuts (if wheel removed for access)76 ft-lb (103 Nm)

How the job goes

  1. Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and confirm the battery is good (12.5 V+ resting) and the terminals are clean before condemning the starter.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a 10 mm socket and tuck it aside. Plug in a memory saver first if you want to keep radio settings.
  3. Remove the engine cover (pull straight up off its ball studs) and the air cleaner assembly: loosen the intake hose clamp, unclip the MAF/intake air connector, unbolt the airbox bolts with a 10 mm socket, and lift the box out.
  4. Unclip any harness or hose retainers over the rear of the engine so you can see down to the starter at the transaxle end of the block.
  5. Locate the starter: rear of the engine, low, where the block meets the bellhousing. From above with a light, identify the B terminal (heavy battery cable with a 12 mm nut) and the S terminal connector (small push-on plug).
  6. If access from above is too tight, raise and support the front of the car on jack stands and remove the lower splash shield/undercover for a second approach angle.
  7. Remove the 12 mm nut on the B terminal and slide the heavy cable off. Keep it from touching anything metal. Press the lock tab and unplug the S terminal connector.
  8. Remove the two 14 mm starter mounting bolts using long extensions and a swivel (a 14 mm ratcheting wrench works on the upper one). Note bolt lengths if they differ.
  9. Work the starter out of its locating bore toward the passenger side and up, or down past the bellhousing, whichever gives clearance. It is heavier than it looks.
  10. Compare old and new units: nose depth, gear tooth count, terminal layout and mounting ear spacing must match.
  11. Clean the mounting surface and the cable eyelet with a wire brush and contact cleaner so the new starter grounds properly through the block.
  12. Set the new starter into place, start both 14 mm bolts by hand, then torque to 27 ft-lb. Do not cross-thread; the pilot bore must be seated flush first.
  13. Reconnect the S terminal connector until it clicks, then the B terminal cable, torqued to 87 in-lb. Add a light film of dielectric grease.
  14. Reinstall the airbox, intake hose, harness clips and engine cover. Reinstall the undercover if removed and lower the car.
  15. Reconnect the negative battery cable (53 in-lb) and crank the engine. Let it idle a few minutes to relearn idle if the battery was disconnected, then check for slow crank, grinding or a warm B-terminal cable.

Watch out

Bolt and terminal sizes (14 mm mounting bolts, 12 mm B-terminal nut, 10 mm battery/airbox) are standard across the 2ZR-FE/FAE Corolla, but confirm the starter part number by VIN and verify the mounting bolt torque against the Toyota service manual for your build.

Frequently asked

Do you have to remove the intake manifold to change the starter on a 2014-2019 Corolla?

No. The starter can be reached from above by removing the engine cover, air cleaner box and intake hose, then working past the manifold with long extensions and a swivel adapter. Some people prefer to also remove the lower splash shield and reach the mounting bolts from underneath.

What size are the starter bolts on a Corolla 1.8?

The two starter-to-block mounting bolts are 14 mm heads (M10), torqued to about 27 ft-lb. The heavy battery cable nut on the B terminal is 12 mm, torqued to roughly 87 in-lb.

My Corolla just clicks once and won't crank. Is it the starter?

It can be a failed solenoid or worn brushes, but a weak battery or corroded ground cable produces the same symptom. Measure battery voltage at rest and while cranking, and check voltage drop across both battery cables before buying a starter.

Does anything need to be programmed or reset after replacing the starter?

No programming is required. After reconnecting the battery you may need to reset the clock and radio presets, and let the car idle a few minutes so the ECM relearns idle; some cars also need the power windows' auto-up function re-initialized.

Other jobs on the 2014-2019 Toyota Corolla

Oil ChangeFront Brake Pads and RotorsRear Brake Pads and RotorsBattery ReplacementSpark Plug ReplacementAlternator ReplacementCoolant FlushSerpentine Belt ReplacementTire RotationHeadlight Bulb ReplacementWiper Blade ReplacementThermostat ReplacementFront Strut ReplacementCabin Air Filter ReplacementEngine Air Filter ReplacementTransmission Fluid ChangeFront Wheel Bearing ReplacementOxygen Sensor ReplacementWater Pump Replacement

Starter Replacement on other vehicles

2015-2020 Ford F-1502021-2024 Ford F-1502014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 15002019-2024 Chevrolet Silverado 15002009-2018 Ram 15002019-2024 Ram 15002012-2017 Toyota Camry2018-2024 Toyota Camry2020-2024 Toyota Corolla2013-2018 Toyota RAV42019-2024 Toyota RAV42005-2015 Toyota Tacoma2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma2016-2021 Honda Civic2022-2024 Honda Civic2013-2017 Honda Accord2018-2022 Honda Accord2012-2016 Honda CR-V2017-2022 Honda CR-V2016-2021 Hyundai Tucson