Tools you need for front struts on a 2014-2019 Toyota Corolla

The E170 Corolla uses a conventional MacPherson strut up front: two big 19 mm bolts into the steering knuckle and three 14 mm nuts at the top of the strut tower. Buying complete (loaded) strut assemblies means you never touch a spring compressor, which turns this from a dangerous job into an ordinary bolt-off, bolt-on afternoon. Rust is the main enemy in salt states - soak the knuckle bolts overnight.

The thing people get wrong is the sway bar end link: the ball stud spins freely once the nut loosens, so you need a 6 mm hex key in the end of the stud while you turn the 17 mm nut. The second mistake is skipping the alignment afterward - the lower strut mounting allows enough movement to change camber and toe, and you'll shred the inside edge of a front tire within a few thousand miles.

Complete tool and parts list

Differences within the 2014-2019 generation

All E170 Corollas use the 1.8 L 2ZR-FE or 2ZR-FAE, so engine choice does not change any tool sizes. Trim does affect parts, not tools: S and SE models have sport-tuned struts and springs that must not be mixed with L/LE/Eco units, and Eco models with 2ZR-FAE share the standard suspension hardware.

Torque specs

How the job goes

1. The night before, spray penetrating oil on both strut-to-knuckle bolts, the sway bar end link nuts and the lug nuts.
2. Loosen the front lug nuts a quarter turn with the car on the ground.
3. Chock the rear wheels, jack the front of the car at the center jack point and set jack stands under the front pinch welds or subframe rails. Remove both front wheels.
4. Under the hood, pop off the plastic cowl trim / wiper side cover if it blocks access, and locate the three 14 mm nuts on each strut tower. Do not remove them yet.
5. At the wheel, remove the 17 mm sway bar end link nut at the strut bracket, holding the ball stud with a 6 mm hex key so it cannot spin.
6. Remove the 12 mm bolt holding the brake hose / ABS wire bracket to the strut, and unclip the speed sensor harness (10 mm clip if fitted). Free the lines completely.
7. Support the steering knuckle with the floor jack so it will not drop when the strut releases.
8. Loosen and remove the two 19 mm strut-to-knuckle bolts: 19 mm socket on the nut, 19 mm wrench on the head. Tap the bolts out with a dead blow hammer; do not hammer directly on the threads.
9. Have a helper or use a strap to hold the strut, then remove the three 14 mm upper mount nuts and lower the strut assembly out through the wheel well.
10. Compare old and new assemblies: same length, same bracket orientation, mount stud pattern matches.
11. Lift the new strut into the tower, start the three 14 mm nuts by hand, then guide the strut bottom into the knuckle bracket. Pry the knuckle open slightly if needed and slide the bolts in from the same direction as before.
12. Snug everything, then torque: upper mount nuts 29 ft-lb, knuckle bolts 112 ft-lb, end link nut 55 ft-lb, hose bracket bolt snug.
13. Reattach the brake hose bracket and ABS harness clips exactly as found so nothing rubs at full lock.
14. Repeat on the other side - always replace front struts in pairs.
15. Refit the wheels, lower the car, torque lug nuts to 76 ft-lb in a star pattern, and re-torque after 50 miles.
16. Bounce the front end, then get a front-end alignment; steering wheel centering and toe will have moved.

Watch out

The 19 mm knuckle bolts, 14 mm upper nuts, 17 mm/6 mm end links and 21 mm lug nuts are consistent across E170 Corollas, but confirm the knuckle bolt and end link torque figures in the Toyota service manual for your exact year before final tightening.

Other jobs on the 2014-2019 Toyota Corolla

Front Strut Replacement on other vehicles