Tools you need for front struts on a 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

On the K2XX Silverado 1500 the front "strut" is really a coil-over shock in a short/long-arm suspension, so it does not carry the steering knuckle. That makes the job much simpler than a car MacPherson strut: two bolts at the lower control arm, three nuts at the frame bracket up top, and nothing to disturb at the hub, tie rod or brakes. With loaded assemblies you never touch a spring compressor.

Sizes are the same across the 4.3 V6, 5.3 L83 and 6.2 L86 because the engine sits nowhere near this work. What varies is the strut itself: 2WD and 4WD, Z71 with Rancho dampers, and Magnetic Ride Control on some upper trims all use different part numbers. The thing people get wrong is removing the lower bolts with the control arm unsupported - the arm drops, the brake hose gets stretched, and then lining the new strut back up becomes a wrestling match. Support the arm with a jack and keep it near ride height.

Complete tool and parts list

Differences within the 2014-2018 generation

Tool sizes do not change between the 4.3 V6, 5.3 L83 and 6.2 L86 - all use 21 mm lower strut bolts and 15 mm upper mount nuts. The only differences are the parts: 2WD vs 4WD struts, Z71/Rancho tuned dampers, and Magnetic Ride Control units with an electrical connector on some high trims. Lug nuts are 22 mm on alloy wheels; some base WT steel-wheel trucks take a 13/16 in socket.

Torque specs

How the job goes

1. Spray penetrating oil on both lower strut bolts and the upper mount studs the night before if possible.
2. Chock the rear wheels, break the front lug nuts loose, then lift the truck by the frame rail and set jack stands under the frame. Remove the front wheels.
3. From the engine bay, look down into the shock tower area of the frame bracket and locate the three 15 mm nuts on the strut upper mount studs. Move or unclip any brake line or ABS harness clips in the way.
4. Support the lower control arm with the floor jack so it does not drop when the strut is unloaded. Keep light pressure on it.
5. Remove the two lower strut through-bolts with a 21 mm socket and 21 mm wrench. Tap them out with a drift; they are usually rust-welded into the sleeves.
6. Remove the three 15 mm upper nuts. Use a wobble extension; the rear-most nut is the tight one.
7. Lower the control arm slightly with the jack and work the strut assembly down and out through the wheel opening, tilting the top toward the front of the truck.
8. If the truck has Magnetic Ride Control, unplug the damper connector before pulling the strut and transfer nothing - MRC struts must be replaced with MRC units.
9. Wire-brush the control arm pocket and bolt holes. Compare old and new struts for spring rate, mount orientation and bolt hole spacing.
10. Feed the new strut up into the frame bracket, line the three studs up with the holes and start the 15 mm nuts by hand. Snug them, do not final torque yet.
11. Jack the lower control arm up until the strut bottom lines up with the pocket, pry as needed, and push both bolts through in the original direction. Start the nuts by hand.
12. Torque the lower bolts to about 103 ft-lb (verify in the manual) with the suspension supported near ride height, then torque the three upper nuts to spec.
13. Reinstall any brake line or harness clips, mount the wheels, and torque lug nuts to 140 ft-lb in a star pattern.
14. Lower the truck, bounce the front end, and check for clearance and noise on a short test drive. Get a front alignment checked.

Watch out

The 21 mm lower strut bolts, 15 mm upper mount nuts and 22 mm lug nuts are standard across 2014-2018 Silverado 1500 regardless of engine, but confirm the lower bolt torque and the upper mount torque in a GM service manual for your exact year and drivetrain before final tightening.

Other jobs on the 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

Front Strut Replacement on other vehicles