Tools you need for thermostat on a 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

On the K2XX Silverado the thermostat is not a separate disc in a goose-neck. It comes as a complete plastic housing with the thermostat and seal built in, bolted to the front face of the water pump on the driver's side where the lower radiator hose lands. Two 10 mm bolts hold it, and the engine coolant temperature sensor plugs into the same housing. The actual swap takes fifteen minutes; draining, getting the spring clamp off in a cramped spot, and burping the system are what eat the clock.

The thing people get wrong is the refill. These systems trap air easily, and a truck that overheats or blows cold heat after a thermostat job almost always has an airlock, not a bad part. Use a spill-free funnel, run it up to temperature with the heater on high, and recheck the level after a couple of cool-down cycles. The second most common mistake is snapping a housing bolt or cracking the plastic flange by ugga-dugga-ing it into the aluminum pump.

Complete tool and parts list

Differences within the 2014-2018 generation

The 4.3L LV3, 5.3L L83 and 6.2L L86 are all Gen V engines and use the same style integrated thermostat housing with two 10 mm bolts in the same location, so the tool list is identical. Only the routing clearance differs slightly: the 6.2L is a bit tighter around the accessory drive, so a swivel plus 6 in extension helps. Housing part numbers can differ by engine and build date, so order by VIN.

Torque specs

How the job goes

1. Let the engine cool completely. Pressurized Dex-Cool at 200 F will scald you.
2. Chock the rear wheels, lift the front of the truck and set it on jack stands.
3. Remove the front underbody air deflector/splash shield (mix of 7 mm and 10 mm bolts and plastic push pins).
4. Place the drain pan under the radiator, open the drain cock on the lower driver-side tank and remove the surge tank cap to speed draining. Catch about 2 gallons.
5. Locate the thermostat housing at the driver-side front of the engine where the lower radiator hose meets the water pump.
6. Unplug the engine coolant temperature sensor connector; press the red lock tab first, then the release.
7. Use the spring clamp pliers to slide the lower radiator hose clamp back, twist the hose loose and pull it off the housing neck. Have a rag ready for residual coolant.
8. Remove the two 10 mm bolts holding the housing to the water pump, then work the housing off. An extension with a swivel makes the upper bolt much easier.
9. Clean the water pump sealing face with a plastic scraper and a lint-free rag. Do not let debris fall into the passage.
10. Fit the new housing with its new O-ring seal (a light smear of coolant on the seal helps it seat), start both bolts by hand, then torque evenly to about 13 ft-lb.
11. Transfer or install the ECT sensor if your new housing did not include one, and reconnect the connector until it clicks.
12. Reinstall the lower radiator hose and slide the spring clamp fully back onto the neck bead.
13. Close the radiator drain, reinstall the splash shield, lower the truck.
14. Fit the spill-free funnel to the surge tank and fill with Dex-Cool 50/50 to the cold fill line plus funnel reserve.
15. Start the engine with the heater on full hot, let it reach operating temperature and cycle the thermostat; squeeze the upper hose to help purge air. Watch the funnel for bubbles.
16. Shut off, remove the funnel, set the level to the cold fill mark and cap it. Recheck the level after one or two full heat/cool cycles.
17. Clear any P0128/P0597 codes and confirm coolant temperature reaches about 195-210 F on a scan tool.

Watch out

The two 10 mm housing bolts, the spring-clamp lower hose and the integrated housing/thermostat design are consistent across the 4.3 LV3, 5.3 L83 and 6.2 L86 in this generation; confirm the housing bolt torque and the exact housing part number for your VIN before assembly.

Other jobs on the 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

Thermostat Replacement on other vehicles