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Tools you need for thermostat on a 2013-2017 Honda Accord

Moderate · 1.5-2.5 hours · Updated 2026-09-28
Must-have tools
  1. 10 mm socket, 3/8 in drive
  2. 3/8 in ratchet with 6 in extension
  3. Hose clamp pliers
  4. Drain pan, 2 gallon
  5. Honda Type 2 blue coolant

On the 9th-gen Accord the thermostat lives in a small housing where the lower radiator hose meets the block, not up top by the upper hose like many older cars. That means the job is done from underneath: drop the splash shield, drain the radiator, pull two 10 mm bolts, swap the thermostat and its O-ring, and put it back. Mechanically it is easy; the fiddly part is access around the lower hose, which is tighter on the V6.

The mistake that bites people is the refill. These cars trap air readily and the bleeder screw on the upper hose/housing has to be opened while filling, followed by a long idle with the heater on full hot until the fans cycle twice. Skip that and you get a cold heater, a wandering temp gauge, or an overheat on the first highway run. The other common error is overtightening the two cover bolts into aluminum threads, they only need about 9 ft-lb.

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Complete tool and parts list

ItemType
Floor jack
2 ton minimum
Lift the front of the car to reach the drain and splash shield.
Requiredshop
Jack stands
2 ton pair, under pinch weld jack points
Support the car while you work underneath.
Safetyshop
Socket set
10 mm 6-point socket, 3/8 in drive
Removes the under-engine splash shield bolts and the thermostat housing bolts.
Requiredshop
Ratchet and extensions
3/8 in drive, 3 in and 6 in extensions plus swivel
Reaches the housing bolts tucked behind the lower radiator hose.
Requiredshop
Trim clip pliers
Plastic push-pin removal tool
Pops the splash shield push clips without breaking them.
Requiredshop
Drain pan
2 gallon low-profile
Catches roughly 1.5-2 gallons of old coolant.
Requiredshop
Hose clamp pliers
Spring (constant-tension) clamp pliers, cable type helpful
Honda uses spring clamps on the lower radiator hose and bypass hoses.
Requiredshop
Pliers, needle nose

Handy for smaller bypass hose clamps and the bleeder area.
Recommendedshop
Flat screwdriver
Small, and a #2 Phillips
Opens the bleeder screw and pries the old thermostat/O-ring free.
Recommendedshop
Gasket scraper
Plastic or brass scraper
Cleans the housing sealing face without gouging aluminum.
Recommendedshop
Torque wrench
3/8 in drive, 5-80 ft-lb
Thermostat cover bolts thread into aluminum and strip easily.
Requiredshop
Spill-free funnel kit
Universal radiator funnel with Honda adapter
Makes refilling and burping air out far easier and cleaner.
Recommendedshop
Thermostat with O-ring
Honda/OEM-equivalent, K24W or J35Y specific
The replacement unit; O-ring is usually included and must be used.
Partsshop
Coolant
Honda Type 2 blue, premixed, 1-2 gallons
Honda's silicate-free formula; do not substitute green universal coolant.
Consumablesshop
Distilled water
1 gallon
For flushing/topping if you use concentrate.
Consumablesshop
Shop rags and parts cleaner

Clean the sealing surface and wipe up spills.
Consumablesshop
Nitrile gloves and eye protection

Coolant is toxic and hot coolant burns.
Safetyshop
Infrared thermometer or scan tool
OBD2 with live ECT data
Confirms the thermostat opens and the system is fully bled.
Recommendedshop

Differences within the 2013-2017 generation

Both engines use 10 mm housing bolts and 10 mm splash shield bolts, so the socket set is the same. On the 2.4 K24W the thermostat housing is on the transmission side of the block at the lower radiator hose and is reachable with a 6 inch extension. On the 3.5 J35Y it sits lower and further forward under the intake area, so plan on a swivel joint and possibly unclipping a coolant pipe bracket; the V6 also takes more coolant, buy 2 gallons of premix.

Torque specs

Thermostat housing/cover bolts (6 mm)about 9 ft-lb (12 Nm) - verify in the service manual
Radiator drain plug (plastic)Hand tight only, do not use a tool
Under-engine splash shield boltsabout 7-9 ft-lb (10-12 Nm)
Cooling system bleeder screwSnug by hand, roughly 2-4 ft-lb - verify in the service manual

How the job goes

  1. Work on a cold engine only. Park level, chock the rear wheels, raise the front and set it on jack stands at the factory pinch-weld points.
  2. Remove the under-engine splash shield: 10 mm bolts plus plastic push clips. Keep the clips in order, they break easily when cold.
  3. Open the radiator cap (or coolant reservoir cap) to vent the system, then open the plastic radiator drain plug at the lower corner and drain into the pan. Draining the block is not required for a thermostat, but you will lose more coolant when the housing comes off, so have the pan positioned under the housing too.
  4. Locate the thermostat housing at the lower radiator hose connection on the block: transmission side of the block on the 2.4 K24W; low on the front of the engine near the driver side on the 3.5 J35Y. On the V6 you may need to move the lower radiator hose and, on some cars, a coolant pipe bracket aside for access.
  5. Squeeze the spring clamp with hose clamp pliers, slide it back, and twist the lower radiator hose off the housing neck. Do not pry on the hose neck.
  6. Remove the two 10 mm housing/cover bolts and pull the cover off. Note which way the thermostat faces and where the jiggle valve/air bleed pin points before removing it.
  7. Clean the aluminum sealing surface with a plastic scraper and a rag. Do not use a metal blade or abrasive pad on the mating face.
  8. Fit the new O-ring into the groove on the new thermostat (lightly wet with coolant, never grease or oil), install the thermostat with the spring side into the engine and the jiggle valve/bleed hole at the top, exactly as the old one sat.
  9. Reinstall the cover and start both bolts by hand, then torque evenly to about 9 ft-lb. These bolts strip aluminum threads very easily.
  10. Reconnect the lower radiator hose and reposition the spring clamp on the raised bead of the neck. Close the radiator drain plug hand tight.
  11. Lower the car. Open the bleeder screw on the upper hose/thermostat-side housing, fill the radiator slowly with Honda Type 2 coolant until it runs out clean at the bleeder, then close the bleeder.
  12. Install a spill-free funnel on the radiator neck, fill it half full, start the engine and let it idle with the heater on full hot and the blower on low. Let it run through at least two cooling fan cycles, squeezing the upper hose occasionally to push air out.
  13. Shut off, let it cool, remove the funnel, top the radiator to the neck, install the cap, and fill the reservoir to the MAX line.
  14. Drive the car, then recheck the reservoir level cold the next day and top off. Verify the gauge sits at normal and heat blows hot; ECT on a scan tool should stabilize around 190-200 F.

Watch out

Bolt sizes (10 mm for the housing, splash shield and clips) are consistent across the 9th-gen Accord, but the thermostat housing location differs between the 2.4 and 3.5 and the exact cover bolt torque should be confirmed against the Honda service manual for your specific year.

Frequently asked

Where is the thermostat on a 2013-2017 Honda Accord?

It is in a housing at the lower radiator hose connection on the engine block, not at the upper hose. On the 2.4 it is on the transmission side of the block; on the 3.5 V6 it is low on the front of the engine, both reached from underneath after removing the splash shield.

What coolant does the 9th-gen Accord take?

Honda Type 2 blue coolant, ideally premixed. It is silicate and borate free; mixing in green or orange universal coolant risks water pump seal and gasket damage. The 2.4 takes roughly 1.5 gallons total, the V6 a bit more.

How do I bleed the cooling system after changing the thermostat?

Open the bleeder screw on the upper hose/housing and fill the radiator until coolant runs out clean, then close it. Use a spill-free funnel, idle the engine with the heater on full hot through at least two fan cycles, then cool, top off the radiator and fill the reservoir to MAX.

Do I have to replace the whole thermostat housing?

No. Honda sells the thermostat with its O-ring separately and the aluminum housing is reusable unless it is corroded or the sealing face is pitted. Always use a new O-ring and never reuse the old one.

Other jobs on the 2013-2017 Honda Accord

Oil ChangeFront Brake Pads and RotorsRear Brake Pads and RotorsBattery ReplacementSpark Plug ReplacementAlternator ReplacementStarter ReplacementCoolant FlushSerpentine Belt ReplacementTire RotationHeadlight Bulb ReplacementWiper Blade ReplacementFront Strut ReplacementCabin Air Filter ReplacementEngine Air Filter ReplacementTransmission Fluid ChangeFront Wheel Bearing ReplacementOxygen Sensor ReplacementWater Pump Replacement

Thermostat Replacement on other vehicles

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