Tools you need for oil change on a 2013-2017 Honda Accord

This is one of the easiest oil changes on any modern Honda. Both the 2.4L K24W four and the 3.5L J35Y V6 use a 17 mm hex drain bolt in an aluminum pan and a normal spin-on cartridge filter, so there is no plastic housing or cap to crack. The only real access work is pulling the lower splash shield on the four-cylinder - 10 mm bolts plus a handful of plastic push clips that break if you pry them the wrong way.

Two things people get wrong: reusing the crush washer, which leads to a slow seep at the drain bolt, and forgetting to reset the Maintenance Minder. The reset is done with the steering wheel SEL/RESET or info button while the ignition is on - hold it about 10 seconds on the Oil Life screen. Also mind the viscosity: the 2.4 wants 0W-20, the V6 wants 5W-20.

Complete tool and parts list

Differences within the 2013-2017 generation

Socket sizes are the same for both engines: 17 mm drain bolt, 64.5 mm 14-flute filter wrench, 10 mm shield bolts. Differences are location and fluid - the 2.4L filter sits low on the block behind a full splash shield (about 4.2 qt of 0W-20), while the 3.5L V6 filter is on the front of the block with easier access (about 4.6 qt of 5W-20). The Accord Hybrid uses the same 17 mm drain bolt but has its own capacity, so check the label.

Torque specs

How the job goes

1. Warm the engine for 3-5 minutes so the oil flows, then shut it off. Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels.
2. Lift the front with the jack at the factory front jack point and set jack stands under the pinch welds or subframe. Never work under a jack alone.
3. Remove the lower splash shield: 10 mm bolts around the perimeter plus Phillips/push-type clips. On the V6 you may only need to remove the small center access panel.
4. Position the drain pan, then loosen the 17 mm drain bolt on the oil pan and remove it by hand. Let the oil drain 5-10 minutes.
5. Move the pan under the oil filter. On the 2.4L the filter is on the rear/lower area of the block; on the 3.5L it is on the front of the block, reachable from below. Loosen with the 64.5 mm 14-flute cup wrench and spin it off by hand, keeping it upright as it clears.
6. Wipe the filter mounting surface clean and confirm the old filter's rubber gasket came off with it.
7. Smear a film of fresh oil on the new filter's gasket, thread it on by hand until the gasket contacts, then tighten 7/8 of a turn (about 16 ft-lb).
8. Fit a new 14 mm crush washer on the drain bolt, install it, and torque to 29 ft-lb (39 Nm). Do not overtighten the aluminum pan.
9. Reinstall the splash shield with its 10 mm bolts and clips, snug only.
10. Lower the car. Add oil through the filler cap: about 4.2 US qt (4.0 L) for the 2.4L with filter, about 4.6 US qt (4.4 L) for the 3.5L V6. Add most of it, then top off by dipstick.
11. Start the engine, let it idle until the oil pressure light goes out, and check under the car for leaks at the filter and drain bolt.
12. Shut off, wait 3 minutes, and recheck the dipstick. Adjust to the upper mark.
13. Reset the Maintenance Minder: with the ignition on, use the steering wheel SEL/RESET (or info) button to select the Oil Life display, hold SEL/RESET about 10 seconds until it blinks, then press again to reset to 100%.
14. Take the used oil and filter to a recycling center.

Watch out

The 17 mm drain bolt, 14 mm crush washer, 64.5 mm 14-flute filter wrench and 29 ft-lb drain torque are correct for both 9th-gen Accord engines; double-check your exact oil capacity and viscosity on the underhood label or owner's manual, since Hybrid models differ.

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