Tools you need for front wheel bearing on a 2013-2017 Honda Accord

On the 9th gen Accord (2013-2017) Honda moved the front to a MacPherson strut setup, so the knuckle comes off with two strut bolts and one lower ball joint instead of the old double-wishbone dance. The catch is that the bearing is still press-fit into the knuckle and retained by an internal snap ring, with a separate press-in hub. There is no four-bolt bolt-on hub unit, so you either pull the knuckle and use a shop press, or buy an on-car hub bearing press kit.

Both the 2.4 K24W and the 3.5 J35Y use the same front bearing and the same fastener sizes, so engine choice barely matters here. The mistake that kills new bearings is pressing on the wrong race - push only on the outer race going into the knuckle and support the inner race when pressing the hub in - closely followed by reusing the old staked 24 mm axle nut instead of fitting a new one and torquing it to about 181 ft-lb with the wheel on the ground.

Complete tool and parts list

Differences within the 2013-2017 generation

Fastener sizes are the same for the 2.4 K24W and 3.5 J35Y front knuckle, bearing and axle nut. V6 and Sport/Touring trims use larger front rotors and calipers, but the caliper bracket bolts are still 17 mm and the slide bolts 12 mm. Wheel sizes vary from 16 to 19 in; lug nuts remain 19 mm across the generation.

Torque specs

How the job goes

1. With the car on the ground, break the lug nuts loose, then unstake the 24 mm axle nut collar with a chisel and loosen the nut while a helper holds the brake pedal.
2. Raise the front, set jack stands under the subframe or pinch weld, and remove the wheel.
3. Unbolt the caliper slide bolts (12 mm head), hang the caliper from a spring with wire, then remove the two 17 mm caliper bracket bolts and the bracket.
4. Back out the two rotor retaining screws with an impact driver and pull the rotor; if rusted on, thread bolts into the two jacking holes to push it off.
5. Unbolt the ABS wheel speed sensor bolt and free the sensor and harness clips so the wire is not stretched or cut.
6. Remove the axle nut and washer. Push the axle shaft inward out of the hub splines; tap it with a soft blow if needed.
7. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the lower ball joint and press the stud out of the knuckle with a ball joint separator. Disconnect the tie rod end if you need more clearance.
8. Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts and lift the knuckle off, keeping the axle shaft supported so the inner CV joint is not overextended.
9. On the bench or press: press the hub out of the bearing, remove the internal snap ring with heavy snap ring pliers, then press the old bearing out of the knuckle from the inboard side.
10. Clean and inspect the knuckle bore. Press the new bearing in squarely against the outer race only, using a driver that touches only the outer race, until it seats.
11. Install the new snap ring fully in its groove, then press the hub into the bearing supporting the inner race so load never passes through the balls.
12. Refit the knuckle: strut bolts first (snug), then the ball joint stud with nut and a new cotter pin, then the tie rod end if removed.
13. Reinstall the axle shaft through the hub, fit the washer and a new 24 mm spindle nut, and reinstall rotor, caliper bracket, caliper and ABS sensor to spec.
14. Lower the wheel to the ground, torque the lug nuts to 80 ft-lb, then torque the axle nut to 181 ft-lb and stake the collar into the axle groove.
15. Pump the brake pedal until firm, then test drive at low speed and listen for remaining noise; check for ABS or VSA lights on the dash.

Watch out

Sizes here (19 mm lugs, 24 mm axle nut, 17 mm caliper bracket bolts, 12 mm caliper slide bolts) match the 9th gen Accord on both engines, but confirm the strut-to-knuckle and ball joint nut torques plus the exact axle nut spec in the factory service manual for your year, since Honda revised some values mid-generation.

Other jobs on the 2013-2017 Honda Accord

Front Wheel Bearing Replacement on other vehicles