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Tools you need for engine air filter on a 2013-2017 Honda Accord

Easy · 10-20 minutes · Updated 2026-09-28
Must-have tools
  1. #2 Phillips screwdriver
  2. Flat-blade screwdriver for cover clips
  3. 10 mm socket, 1/4 in drive
  4. Shop vacuum or rag

This is the easiest maintenance item on a 9th-gen Accord. The filter is a flat paper panel in a clamshell housing under the hood, held shut by spring clips and, depending on build, a couple of Phillips or 10 mm screws. No jacking, no draining, no electronics to reset.

The one thing people get wrong is the rear clips. They sit behind the intake duct where you cannot see them, so folks force the cover, crack a tab, and end up with a whistle or a lean code. Loosen or unclip the duct first, then latch every clip and confirm the filter gasket is flat against the cover lip all the way around.

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Complete tool and parts list

ItemType
Flat-blade screwdriver
Medium, ~6 in
Pries open the spring/metal clips holding the airbox lid.
Requiredshop
Phillips screwdriver
#2, magnetic tip preferred
Removes the cover screws used on some 9th-gen airboxes and the intake duct clamp screw.
Requiredshop
Socket wrench and socket
10 mm, 1/4 in drive with short extension
Loosens the intake duct hose clamp or airbox cover bolts where fitted, and the resonator bracket on the V6.
Recommendedshop
Nut driver
8 mm or 5/16 in for worm-gear clamps
Faster than a socket on the intake tube clamp if you need to free the duct.
Recommendedshop
Shop vacuum
Small wet/dry with crevice tool
Cleans leaves and grit out of the lower housing before the new filter goes in.
Recommendedshop
Microfiber rag

Wipes the sealing lip of the housing so the new filter seats leak-free.
Consumablesshop
Flashlight
LED handheld or headlamp
Lets you confirm the rear clips are latched and the filter gasket is seated.
Recommendedshop
Engine air filter
Honda 17220-5A2-A00 (2.4L) / 17220-5G0-A00 (3.5L V6) or equivalent
The replacement panel element; confirm engine before buying.
Partsshop
Nitrile gloves

Keeps dust and old filter debris off your hands.
Safetyshop

Differences within the 2013-2017 generation

The 2.4L K24W airbox sits on the driver's side and its cover usually comes off with clips alone; the 3.5L J35Y V6 has a longer intake path with a resonator and often one or two 10 mm bracket bolts plus a clamp screw to free the duct. Filter part numbers also differ: 17220-5A2-A00 for the 2.4L, 17220-5G0-A00 for the V6.

Torque specs

Airbox cover screws/boltsSnug by hand, roughly 7-9 ft-lb (9-12 Nm); verify in the service manual
Intake duct hose clampSnug only, about 4 ft-lb (5 Nm); verify in the service manual

How the job goes

  1. Park on level ground, shut the engine off and let it cool; the airbox area gets warm but nothing needs to be disconnected electrically.
  2. Open the hood and locate the black plastic airbox: driver's side rear corner of the bay on the 2.4L, and toward the passenger/front area feeding the throttle body on the 3.5L V6.
  3. If the intake duct blocks access to the rear clips, loosen its hose clamp with a #2 Phillips or 8 mm nut driver and ease the duct off the cover, or unclip the resonator bracket (10 mm) on the V6.
  4. Release the spring clips around the perimeter of the housing with a flat-blade screwdriver, and back out any Phillips or 10 mm cover screws if your car has them. Keep the screws in a magnetic tray.
  5. Lift the cover up and rearward. On the 2.4L it stays tethered by the intake tube, so you usually do not need to fully remove it.
  6. Lift out the old panel filter, noting which way the pleats and the rubber gasket face.
  7. Vacuum or wipe out the lower housing. Do not let leaves or grit fall past the filter seat toward the MAF sensor and throttle body.
  8. Drop the new filter in with the gasket facing up against the cover sealing lip, seated flat in all four corners.
  9. Set the cover back down, make sure the front tabs engage, then latch each spring clip and reinstall any screws finger-tight plus a nudge.
  10. Reattach the intake duct and tighten the clamp snug, then start the engine and listen for an unmetered air whistle or hiss, which means a clip or the duct is not seated.

Watch out

Filter location and the clip-plus-screw cover design are correct for the 2013-2017 Accord, but the exact number of clips versus Phillips screws varies slightly by build year and engine, so check your own airbox before prying.

Frequently asked

How often should the air filter be changed on a 2013-2017 Accord?

Honda's Maintenance Minder calls it out around every 30,000 miles under normal use, item 4 in the sub-item list. Dusty or gravel-road driving can cut that to 15,000-20,000 miles.

Do I need to reset anything after changing the air filter?

No. The air filter is not tied to a Maintenance Minder sub-item that requires a reset on most builds, and no computer relearn is needed. If your display shows sub-item 4, you can clear it through the trip/select controls in the instrument cluster.

Is the cabin air filter the same job?

No. The cabin filter lives behind the glovebox inside the car and requires dropping the glovebox stops; the engine air filter is under the hood. They are different parts and different intervals.

Why does my engine whistle after I changed the filter?

Almost always an unlatched clip or an intake duct clamp that is not seated, which lets unmetered air in. Recheck every clip around the housing and make sure the duct is fully seated on the cover before tightening the clamp.

Other jobs on the 2013-2017 Honda Accord

Oil ChangeFront Brake Pads and RotorsRear Brake Pads and RotorsBattery ReplacementSpark Plug ReplacementAlternator ReplacementStarter ReplacementCoolant FlushSerpentine Belt ReplacementTire RotationHeadlight Bulb ReplacementWiper Blade ReplacementThermostat ReplacementFront Strut ReplacementCabin Air Filter ReplacementTransmission Fluid ChangeFront Wheel Bearing ReplacementOxygen Sensor ReplacementWater Pump Replacement

Engine Air Filter Replacement on other vehicles

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