This AI-generated draft has not been independently verified for your vehicle. Confirm engine, trim, build date, tool fitment and torque specifications against the relevant service information before buying tools or starting work.
The 5th-gen CR-V makes this one of the easiest jobs on the car. The airbox sits right at the front of the passenger side of the engine bay, the lid is held by spring clips plus a couple of small fasteners, and nothing has to be drained, jacked up or unbolted from the engine. If you have a Phillips screwdriver, a 10 mm socket and ten minutes, you are done.
What varies is trivial: some builds use Phillips head lid screws, others a 10 mm hex head, and the hybrid's engine bay is more crowded so you may need a short extension. The one thing people get wrong is the gasket. The filter's rubber lip has to sit fully into the groove all the way around before the lid goes down. Force the clips shut over a lifted corner and you get unfiltered air, a whistle at idle, and sometimes a lean code on the 1.5 turbo.
| Item | Type | Product search |
|---|---|---|
| Phillips screwdriver #2, magnetic tip preferred Loosens the airbox lid screws and the intake tube hose clamp screw. | Required | search retailer |
| Socket set 10 mm socket, 1/4 in drive Fits the 10 mm hex head on the airbox lid fasteners and intake duct clamp on many builds. | Required | search retailer |
| Ratchet 1/4 in drive, short handle Drives the 10 mm socket in the tight space behind the airbox. | Required | search retailer |
| Nut driver or flex extension 1/4 in drive, 3 in extension Reaches the rear airbox lid fastener that sits against the firewall side. | Recommended | search retailer |
| Trim/pry tool Plastic, flat blade Pops the spring clips holding the airbox lid without marring the plastic. | Required | search retailer |
| Shop vacuum Narrow crevice nozzle Clears leaves and grit from the lower airbox housing before fitting the new filter. | Recommended | search retailer |
| Microfiber cloth Wipes the sealing surfaces of the housing and lid. | Consumables | search retailer |
| Engine air filter Honda 17220-5AA-A00 (1.5T/2.4L); hybrid uses 17220-5K0-A00 - confirm by VIN The replacement panel filter itself. | Parts | search retailer |
| Nitrile gloves Keeps dust and oil residue off your hands. | Safety | search retailer |
| Flashlight LED work light Lets you see the rear clips and check the gasket seats fully. | Recommended | search retailer |
Tool sizes are the same for the 1.5L turbo, 2.4L K24 and the 2.0L hybrid - a #2 Phillips plus a 10 mm socket covers all of them. The hybrid's bay is tighter, so a 3 in extension helps on the rear lid fastener. Filter part numbers differ between the gas models and the hybrid, so confirm by VIN rather than by shape.
| Airbox cover screws/bolts | Snug by hand only, roughly 4-5 ft-lb (5-7 Nm) - verify in the service manual |
| Intake tube hose clamp | verify in the service manual |
A 10 mm socket on a 1/4 in drive ratchet covers the hex-head lid fasteners and the intake duct hose clamp. Some builds use Phillips head screws instead, so have a #2 Phillips on hand too.
Honda's Maintenance Minder typically calls for it around every 15,000-30,000 miles depending on conditions. If you drive on dirt roads or in heavy dust, inspect it every oil change and replace when the pleats are grey and packed with debris.
No. The engine air filter is in the black airbox under the hood on the passenger side; the cabin filter is behind the glovebox and filters the air you breathe. They are different parts and different jobs.
A merely dirty filter rarely sets a code, but a filter installed with a lifted or pinched gasket can let unmetered air in and trigger lean or fuel trim codes. If a light appears right after the change, pull the lid and reseat the filter.