This AI-generated draft has not been independently verified for your vehicle. Confirm engine, trim, build date, tool fitment and torque specifications against the relevant service information before buying tools or starting work.
On the 5th-gen CR-V the front strut is about as DIY-friendly as modern Honda suspension gets: two big bolts into the knuckle, three nuts at the top of the tower, and the assembly comes out the wheel well. If you buy complete loaded assemblies you never touch a coil spring, which removes the only genuinely dangerous part of the job. Most of the difficulty is leverage — the lower bolts are torqued near 100 ft-lb and often corroded, so a breaker bar or a real impact wrench matters more than any specialty tool.
The mistake people make is skipping the alignment. Front camber on this chassis is set at the strut-to-knuckle joint, so even a careful reinstall can leave you with a pull and inside-edge tire wear. The second mistake is unbolting the brackets last instead of first: the brake hose bracket and wheel speed sensor clip must come off before the knuckle drops, or you stretch or tear wiring.
| Item | Type | Product search |
|---|---|---|
| Floor jack 2 ton minimum, low profile Lift the front of the vehicle and later support the knuckle while unbolting the strut. | Required | search retailer |
| Jack stands 2 ton pair, under front subframe jack points Support the car safely while both front wheels are off. | Safety | search retailer |
| Wheel chocks Block the rear wheels since the car sits on stands with the front unloaded. | Safety | search retailer |
| Lug nut socket 19 mm, 6-point, 1/2 in drive (thin wall preferred for alloy wheels) Remove both front wheels. | Required | search retailer |
| Breaker bar 1/2 in drive, 24 in Crack the lug nuts and the seized strut-to-knuckle bolts. | Required | search retailer |
| Impact wrench 1/2 in drive, 400+ ft-lb Much faster and easier on the seized lower strut bolts and nuts. | Recommended | search retailer |
| Socket set 1/2 in drive metric 6-point: 17, 19, 21 mm 19 mm covers the two strut-to-knuckle bolt heads and nuts on this chassis. | Required | search retailer |
| Socket set 3/8 in drive metric: 10, 12, 14, 17 mm plus 3 in and 6 in extensions 14 mm for the three upper mount nuts, 12 mm for the brake hose/ABS harness bracket, 10 mm for wiring clips. | Required | search retailer |
| Ratchet 3/8 in and 1/2 in drive General fastener removal and reinstallation. | Required | search retailer |
| Combination wrench set Metric 12, 14, 17, 19 mm Hold the nut side of the through-bolts and reach the stabilizer link. | Required | search retailer |
| Hex key or bit socket 6 mm hex Holds the stabilizer link ball stud from spinning while you turn its 14 mm nut, and holds the damper shaft if you reuse a mount. | Required | search retailer |
| Torque wrench 1/2 in drive, 30-150 ft-lb Torque the strut-to-knuckle bolts and lug nuts correctly. | Required | search retailer |
| Torque wrench 3/8 in drive, 10-80 ft-lb Accurate torque on the three upper mount nuts and bracket bolts. | Recommended | search retailer |
| Pry bar 12-18 in Spread the knuckle clamp area and coax the strut in and out of position. | Required | search retailer |
| Second floor jack or bottle jack Supports the steering knuckle/lower control arm so the hub doesn't drop when the strut comes out. | Recommended | search retailer |
| Penetrating oil Soak the lower strut bolts and stabilizer link nut before removal. | Consumables | search retailer |
| Wire brush Clean corrosion off the knuckle bolt holes and strut mounting surfaces. | Recommended | search retailer |
| Bungee cord or mechanic's wire Hang the caliper/knuckle so the brake hose and ABS sensor wire aren't stretched. | Recommended | search retailer |
| Brake cleaner Clean off penetrating oil overspray near the rotor and pads. | Consumables | search retailer |
| Thread-locker Medium strength, blue Optional on the stabilizer link nut and bracket bolts if the originals were loose or cleaned. | Consumables | search retailer |
| Complete front strut assemblies Left and right, 2017-2022 CR-V specific (confirm 1.5T / 2.4L / hybrid trim fitment) The loaded assembly includes damper, spring, upper mount and bearing. | Parts | search retailer |
| Safety glasses Rust and debris fall from the wheel wells while working overhead. | Safety | search retailer |
| Mechanic's gloves Protects hands during hard breakaway pulls on seized bolts. | Safety | search retailer |
Tool sizes are identical across the 1.5 turbo, 2.4 K24 and the 2020+ hybrid — 19 mm lower bolts, 14 mm upper nuts, 19 mm lug nuts on all of them. Only the part numbers differ: strut valving and spring rates vary by engine, drivetrain (2WD vs AWD) and trim, and hybrids are heavier, so order by VIN. On hybrids also watch for the orange high-voltage cables routed near the front subframe.
| Front wheel lug nuts | 80 ft-lb (108 Nm) |
| Front damper (strut) to steering knuckle bolts/nuts, 14 mm thread | 98 ft-lb (133 Nm) — verify in the service manual for your exact year |
| Front damper upper mount nuts (3x, 14 mm socket) | verify in the service manual (typically around 29-40 Nm on this platform) |
| Stabilizer link nut at lower arm | verify in the service manual |
| Brake hose / wheel speed sensor bracket bolt to knuckle | verify in the service manual (low, roughly 16-22 Nm) |
Not if you buy complete (loaded) strut assemblies, which include the spring, mount and bearing. You only need a compressor if you are reusing your original springs and upper mounts on a bare damper.
The two strut-to-knuckle fasteners use a 19 mm head and 19 mm nut on a 14 mm-thread bolt, and the three upper mount nuts at the strut tower take a 14 mm socket. Lug nuts are 19 mm.
Yes. The strut is part of the front camber geometry on this platform, so have a four-wheel alignment done right after the job to avoid a steering pull and rapid inside tire wear.
Mechanically yes, but it is a bad idea. A new strut on one side and a worn one on the other gives uneven ride height and handling, so replace them as a pair.