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The XV70 Camry makes this job much easier than press-in bearing designs: the bearing and hub are one bolt-on unit held by four bolts through the back of the steering knuckle. No press, no knuckle removal, no ball joint separation if you are patient with the axle. The whole job is realistically a two to four hour afternoon on one side, and most of that is fighting corrosion rather than turning bolts.
The two things that go wrong are the same on every one of these cars. First, people reuse the staked axle nut — don't, buy a new one and re-stake it. Second, the hub flange corrosion-welds itself into the knuckle bore, and people start hammering on the inboard seal, which destroys the ABS magnetic encoder ring on the new part or the old part they were trying to save. Use a slide hammer puller on the wheel studs instead, and sand the knuckle bore clean before the new hub goes in.
| Item | Type | Product search |
|---|---|---|
| Floor jack 2 ton minimum, low profile Lifts the front of the car at the pinch-weld or front subframe jack point. | Required | search retailer |
| Jack stands 2 ton pair, pinch weld pads Supports the car at the factory pinch-weld points while you work. | Safety | search retailer |
| Wheel chocks Blocks the rear wheels since the parking brake holds the rear only. | Safety | search retailer |
| Lug nut socket 21 mm, 1/2 in drive, thin wall Removes the five lug nuts; thin wall protects alloy wheel faces. | Required | search retailer |
| Breaker bar 1/2 in drive, 24 in Cracks the axle nut and lug nuts loose with the wheel on the ground. | Required | search retailer |
| Impact wrench 1/2 in drive, 600+ ft-lb nut-busting Fastest way off for the axle nut and the four rear hub bolts. | Recommended | search retailer |
| Axle nut socket 30 mm, 1/2 in drive, 6-point Fits the front driveaxle hub nut on 2.5, 3.5 and hybrid Camrys. | Required | search retailer |
| Small chisel and hammer 1/4 in flat chisel, 16 oz ball peen Unstakes the collar of the old axle nut before loosening it. | Required | search retailer |
| Socket set 3/8 in drive, 10-19 mm, 6-point ABS sensor bolt (10 mm), caliper slide bolts (14 mm), brake hose and dust shield bolts (10-12 mm). | Required | search retailer |
| Socket 19 mm, 1/2 in drive, 6-point Removes the two caliper mounting bracket bolts on the back of the knuckle. | Required | search retailer |
| Socket 17 mm, 1/2 in drive, 6-point plus deep Removes the four hub-to-knuckle bolts from behind the knuckle. | Required | search retailer |
| Ratchet and extensions 1/2 in and 3/8 in, 3 in / 6 in / wobble Reaches the rear hub bolts around the driveaxle and dust shield. | Required | search retailer |
| Breaker bar or torque multiplier adapter 1/2 in Hub bolts are often seized with thread locker and need real leverage. | Recommended | search retailer |
| Bungee cord or wire hanger Hangs the caliper from the spring so the brake hose is never loaded. | Required | search retailer |
| Dead blow hammer 2-3 lb Knocks the hub flange out of the knuckle bore and taps the axle back through. | Required | search retailer |
| Slide hammer with hub puller plate 5-lug, M12 x 1.5 studs Pulls a corrosion-welded hub out of the knuckle without damaging the flange. | Recommended | search retailer |
| Penetrating oil Soaks the axle nut, hub bolts and hub-to-knuckle joint the night before. | Consumables | search retailer |
| Wire brush and emery cloth 80-120 grit cloth Cleans rust from the knuckle bore and mating face so the new hub seats flat. | Consumables | search retailer |
| Brake cleaner non-chlorinated, 14 oz Degreases the rotor, hub face and axle splines. | Consumables | search retailer |
| Anti-seize compound nickel or copper based Thin film on the knuckle bore and rotor hub face only — never on bolt threads or the wheel mating surface. | Consumables | search retailer |
| Thread locker medium strength, blue Hub bolt threads if the factory pre-applied locker is scraped off. | Consumables | search retailer |
| Torque wrench 1/2 in drive, 30-250 ft-lb Sets the axle nut and hub bolts to spec; the axle nut is high torque. | Required | search retailer |
| Torque wrench 3/8 in drive, 10-80 ft-lb Accurate for caliper slide bolts, ABS sensor and lug nuts. | Recommended | search retailer |
| Bolt extractor or M8 bolts M8 x 1.25 x 40 mm, two Threaded into the rotor's service holes to jack a rusted rotor off the hub. | Recommended | search retailer |
| Pry bar 12-18 in Retracts the caliper pistons slightly and separates stuck parts. | Recommended | search retailer |
| Front hub / bearing assembly XV70 front axle hub sub-assembly with ABS encoder ring The replacement unit; the magnetic encoder ring is part of the hub seal. | Parts | search retailer |
| Axle hub nut new staked nut, 30 mm hex The nut is staked and single use — do not reuse the old one. | Parts | search retailer |
| Nitrile gloves and safety glasses Brake dust, penetrating oil and hammer debris. | Safety | search retailer |
Tool sizes are the same across the 2.5 A25A-FKS, 3.5 2GR-FKS and the hybrid: 21 mm lugs, 30 mm axle nut, 19 mm caliper bracket bolts, 14 mm slide bolts, 17 mm hub bolts. The difference is brake hardware — V6 and TRD models use larger front rotors and calipers, which are heavier and may need the bracket removed as an assembly rather than just the slide bolts, and hybrids have a regen brake system so any ABS sensor fault will also disable regen until cleared.
| Front axle hub nut (driveaxle nut) | 159 ft-lb (216 Nm) — verify in the service manual |
| Hub/bearing assembly to steering knuckle bolts (4) | verify in the service manual (commonly around 80 ft-lb / 110 Nm on this platform) |
| Brake caliper mounting bracket to knuckle bolts (2) | 79 ft-lb (107 Nm) — verify in the service manual |
| Caliper slide (guide) bolts | 25 ft-lb (34 Nm) — verify in the service manual |
| ABS wheel speed sensor bolt | 7 ft-lb (10 Nm) — verify in the service manual |
| Wheel lug nuts | 76 ft-lb (103 Nm) |
30 mm, and it is a staked collar nut that should be replaced, not reused. Break it loose with the wheel on the ground before jacking the car, and torque the new one to roughly 159 ft-lb (216 Nm), verified against the service manual.
No. The bearing comes as a complete hub unit that bolts to the steering knuckle with four bolts from behind, so you only need hand tools and possibly a slide hammer puller to break the flange free of the knuckle.
Almost always the wheel speed sensor air gap. Either debris under the sensor mounting flange, a damaged sensor cable, or a scratched/magnet-contaminated encoder ring on the new hub. Clean the sensor seat to bare metal, reinstall at about 7 ft-lb, and clear the code with a scan tool.
Usually not. With the caliper, rotor and axle nut off, the axle can be pushed inboard enough to clear the hub splines. If the axle is rust-seized in the splines you may need to separate the outer tie rod (19 mm nut) or lower ball joint for extra swing room.