Tools you need for front wheel bearing on a 2014-2019 Toyota Corolla

The E170 Corolla uses a press-in front bearing cartridge held in the knuckle by an internal snap ring, with the hub flange pressed into it. That makes the front job much more involved than the rear, where the hub is a bolt-on unit. Most people pull the whole knuckle and take it to a press; an on-car FWD bearing press kit works too but fights you in tight quarters.

The two things that go wrong: people press on the inner race when installing the hub and ruin the new bearing, and people reuse the staked axle nut. Buy a new nut, and make sure the snap ring is fully seated in its groove or the bearing will walk. Also check whether your noise is actually the bearing - loading it in a long sweeping turn should change the pitch.

Complete tool and parts list

Differences within the 2014-2019 generation

No difference between the 1.8 2ZR-FE and the 2ZR-FAE (Eco/Valvematic) - the front suspension, knuckle, bearing and all fastener sizes are the same across the E170 range. Wheel size (15, 16 or 17 in on S/SE trims) does not change any of the sizes, though larger-brake S models can have a tighter caliper bracket.

Torque specs

How the job goes

1. With the wheel still on the ground, unstake the axle nut collar with a punch and break the 30 mm axle nut and the 21 mm lug nuts loose.
2. Chock the rear wheels, raise the front on the pinch weld, support on jack stands, and remove the wheel.
3. Remove the 10 mm ABS speed sensor bolt and free the sensor and harness clips from the knuckle - do not yank the wire.
4. Remove the two 14 mm caliper slide bolts, lift the caliper off and hang it with a bungee; then remove the two 17 mm bracket bolts and pull the bracket and pads.
5. Remove the rotor (back off the parking brake nothing on front; if rusted on, use the two threaded jack holes with M8 bolts).
6. Fully remove the axle nut. Tap the end of the axle with a brass hammer to break the splines free from the hub.
7. Pull the tie rod cotter pin, remove the nut and separate the outer tie rod from the knuckle with a puller.
8. Remove the lower ball joint hardware and the two strut-to-knuckle bolts, then work the knuckle off the axle shaft and off the car. Support the axle shaft so the inner CV joint is not overextended.
9. On the bench: pull the hub flange out of the bearing with the slide-hammer hub puller. Remove the leftover inner race from the flange with a bearing splitter.
10. Rotate the internal snap ring out of the knuckle groove with snap ring pliers.
11. Press the old bearing cartridge out of the knuckle (push from the inboard side), then clean the bore down to bare metal and check it for scoring or an oversize bore.
12. Press the new bearing in squarely, pressing only on the outer race, until it is fully seated below the snap ring groove. Fit the new snap ring.
13. Press the hub flange into the new bearing, supporting the bearing inner race so press force does not pass through the balls.
14. Reinstall the knuckle: strut bolts, lower ball joint, tie rod with a new cotter pin, then slide the axle onto the hub splines.
15. Fit a new axle nut and torque it to spec with the brake reapplied or a hub-holding tool, then stake the collar into the axle groove with a punch.
16. Reinstall rotor, caliper bracket, pads, caliper and ABS sensor to torque. Pump the brake pedal until firm before moving the car.
17. Refit the wheel, lower the car and torque lug nuts to 76 ft-lb in a star pattern. Test drive and confirm no ABS or traction light.

Watch out

Sizes here (21 mm lugs, 30 mm axle nut, 14 mm caliper slide bolts, 17 mm caliper bracket, 10 mm ABS sensor) match the E170 Corolla, but ball joint and strut bolt torque and the exact axle nut value should be confirmed against the Toyota service manual for your year and trim.

Other jobs on the 2014-2019 Toyota Corolla

Front Wheel Bearing Replacement on other vehicles