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Tools you need for spark plugs on a 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

Moderate · 1.5-3 hours · Updated 2026-09-28
Must-have tools
  1. 5/8 in spark plug socket, 3/8 in drive
  2. 8 mm socket, 3/8 in drive
  3. Swivel/wobble extensions, 3/8 in drive
  4. Torque wrench, 3/8 in drive
  5. Gap gauge (feeler/coin type)

On the K2XX Silverado all three Gen V engines use coil-on-plug ignition, so there are no plug wires to fight. Each coil is held by two 8 mm bolts on top of the valve cover, and the plug underneath takes a 5/8 in (16 mm) plug socket. The front plugs are easy from above; the rearmost plug on each bank is crowded by the firewall, brake booster and steering shaft, and that is where a swivel extension or universal joint saves the day. On 4WD trucks many people find the middle and rear plugs easier through the wheel well with the front wheel and inner fender liner out of the way.

The mistake that costs money is torque. These are aluminum heads with tapered-seat plugs, and cranking them down or working on a warm engine is how threads get pulled. Install the plugs dry, snug them by hand first, and use a torque wrench rather than feel. Also check the gap on every new plug out of the box — they ship close to 0.040 in but shipping bumps happen, and never pry on the iridium center electrode.

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Complete tool and parts list

ItemType
Socket wrench set
3/8 in drive ratchet, short and long handle
Drives coil bolts, plug socket and fender liner fasteners.
Requiredshop
8 mm socket
8 mm, 3/8 in drive (and 1/4 in drive for tight spots)
Removes the two ignition coil bolts on each cylinder.
Requiredshop
Swivel/wobble extension set
3/8 in drive, 3, 6 and 10 in
Reaches the angled rear plugs and coils without hitting the firewall.
Requiredshop
Universal joint
3/8 in drive
Lets you break loose the rearmost coil bolts and plugs.
Recommendedshop
Spark plug socket
5/8 in (16 mm) thin-wall magnetic or rubber insert, 3/8 in drive
Removes and installs the plugs without cracking the insulator.
Requiredshop
Torque wrench
3/8 in drive, 5-80 ft-lb
Sets plug and coil bolt torque in aluminum heads.
Requiredshop
Spark plug gap gauge
Wire-type or feeler gauge covering 0.040 in
Verifies gap on new plugs before install; do not pry iridium tips.
Requiredshop
Trim/panel removal tool
Plastic pry set
Pops inner fender liner clips if you access plugs from the wheel well.
Recommendedshop
7 mm socket or Phillips driver
7 mm nut driver, 1/4 in drive
Removes inner fender liner screws for side access on 4WD/lifted trucks.
Recommendedshop
Floor jack and jack stands
2.5 ton minimum
Lifts the truck for wheel-well access to the mid and rear plugs.
Requiredshop
Lug wrench or impact with socket
22 mm socket for most K2XX wheels
Removes a front wheel for easier plug access.
Recommendedshop
Compressed air or brake cleaner

Blows debris out of the plug wells before removal.
Consumablesshop
Dielectric grease
Small tube
Small dab inside the coil boot to prevent sticking and arcing.
Consumablesshop
Anti-seize
Nickel-based, optional and used sparingly
GM says install dry; if used, apply a trace and reduce torque.
Consumablesshop
Spark plugs
5.3 L83 / 6.2 L86: ACDelco 41-114 (8); 4.3 LV3: ACDelco 41-114 (6), gap 0.040 in
The replacement plugs; confirm part number against your VIN.
Partsshop
Nitrile gloves and safety glasses

Keeps debris and oil off you while working over hot aluminum heads.
Safetyshop

Differences within the 2014-2018 generation

Tool sizes are the same across the 4.3 LV3, 5.3 L83 and 6.2 L86: 8 mm coil bolts and a 5/8 in plug socket. The only differences are plug count (6 on the V6, 8 on the V8s) and access — the V6's rear plugs sit deeper under the cowl, while the 6.2 in a lifted Z71 or High Country is usually easiest from the wheel well.

Torque specs

Spark plug in aluminum head (new plug, dry)15 ft-lb (20 Nm) — verify in the service manual
Ignition coil mounting bolts (8 mm head)89 in-lb (10 Nm) — verify in the service manual
Front wheel lug nuts140 ft-lb (190 Nm)

How the job goes

  1. Let the engine cool completely. Hot aluminum heads and steel plug threads are how galled threads happen.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal if you prefer; not strictly required, but it keeps the coils dead while you work.
  3. Decide your access: on 2WD you can usually reach all plugs from above with swivel extensions; on 4WD and lifted trucks, jack the front, remove the wheel and peel back the inner fender liner for the mid and rear plugs.
  4. Unclip the wiring harness connector from the first coil (push the tab, pull straight off), then remove the two 8 mm coil bolts and lift the coil off the plug.
  5. Blow or brush all dirt out of the plug well before the socket goes in, so nothing falls into the cylinder.
  6. Break the plug loose with the 5/8 in plug socket and a swivel extension, then back it out slowly. If it feels gritty, back it out a turn, then in, working it out.
  7. Compare the old plug to the new one: check the gap on the new plug at 0.040 in with a wire gauge, adjusting only the ground strap and never prying on the iridium center tip.
  8. Thread the new plug in by hand using the plug socket with the extension only (no ratchet) until seated, then torque it. Never force a cross-threaded plug into aluminum.
  9. Put a light film of dielectric grease inside the coil boot, reinstall the coil, torque the 8 mm bolts lightly, and click the connector back on.
  10. Work one cylinder at a time so you never mix up coils or leave a plug well open.
  11. Repeat for all cylinders: 8 on the 5.3 and 6.2, 6 on the 4.3 V6. The rear plug on each bank is the hard one — patience and a wobble extension beat brute force.
  12. Reinstall the fender liner and wheel if removed, torque lugs to 140 ft-lb, reconnect the battery, then start the engine and confirm a smooth idle with no misfire light.

Watch out

Coil bolts are 8 mm and the plugs take a 5/8 in (16 mm) plug socket across all K2XX Gen V engines (4.3 LV3, 5.3 L83, 6.2 L86); confirm the exact plug part number and torque figure against your VIN and the GM service manual before you start.

Frequently asked

What size socket do I need for Silverado 1500 spark plugs?

A 5/8 in (16 mm) thin-wall spark plug socket on a 3/8 in drive, plus an 8 mm socket for the two ignition coil bolts on each cylinder. Swivel or wobble extensions are effectively required for the rear plugs.

How often should the plugs be changed on a 2014-2018 Silverado?

GM's interval for the iridium plugs on these Gen V engines is about 97,500 miles. Trucks that tow heavily, idle a lot, or run aftermarket tunes often benefit from replacement closer to 60,000-70,000 miles.

What is the spark plug gap and torque?

The ACDelco plugs come pre-gapped at 0.040 in, which is the spec. Torque is light because of the aluminum heads — roughly 15 ft-lb (20 Nm) dry; verify the exact figure in the service manual for your engine.

Do I have to remove the wheel to reach the plugs?

Not on a stock 2WD — you can usually get all of them from above with swivel extensions. On 4WD, Z71 and lifted trucks, pulling a front wheel and the inner fender liner makes the middle and rear plugs much easier and reduces the risk of cross-threading.

Other jobs on the 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

Oil ChangeFront Brake Pads and RotorsRear Brake Pads and RotorsBattery ReplacementAlternator ReplacementStarter ReplacementCoolant FlushSerpentine Belt ReplacementTire RotationHeadlight Bulb ReplacementWiper Blade ReplacementThermostat ReplacementFront Strut ReplacementCabin Air Filter ReplacementEngine Air Filter ReplacementTransmission Fluid ChangeFront Wheel Bearing ReplacementOxygen Sensor ReplacementWater Pump Replacement

Spark Plug Replacement on other vehicles

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