Tools you need for spark plugs on a 2005-2015 Toyota Tacoma

On the 2nd-gen Tacoma this is one of the friendliest jobs on the truck. Both engines use coil-on-plug, and every plug sits straight down in the cam cover - no intake manifold removal, no wire routing, no guessing. Pull the intake hose, unbolt six (or four) 10 mm coil bolts, and you're looking at the plugs.

The 2.7L four-cylinder is a 20-minute job once the airbox hose is out of the way. The 4.0L V6 takes longer only because the rear plug on each bank is crowded by the firewall and harness, where a wobble extension earns its money. The one thing people get wrong is anti-seize: Toyota's iridium plugs have plated threads and specify none, and slathering it on leads to over-torque and stripped aluminum threads. Torque to spec, start every plug by hand, and blow the dirt out of the wells before you pull a coil.

Complete tool and parts list

Differences within the 2005-2015 generation

Socket sizes are identical between the 2.7L 2TR-FE and 4.0L 1GR-FE: 16 mm thin-wall plug socket and 10 mm coil bolts. The only differences are plug count (four vs six) and access - the V6's rear plug on each bank usually needs a swivel or wobble extension, while all four on the 2.7L come out with a straight 6 in extension.

Torque specs

How the job goes

1. Let the engine cool completely. Hot aluminum heads and plug threads are a bad combination, and you can't touch the coils on a warm V6 anyway.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable (10 mm) if you want to be cautious about coil connectors; not strictly required but it avoids codes.
3. Remove the plastic engine cover if fitted (4.0L: pull off the pop-on cover or remove the 10 mm nuts on the studs).
4. Loosen the intake hose clamps and unclip the MAF/IAT connector and breather hose, then remove the air intake hose so you can see the plug wells. On the 4.0L this also clears access to the passenger-bank coils.
5. On the 4.0L, unclip or set aside any wiring harness runs that cross over the cam covers so each coil connector can be reached.
6. Blow out or vacuum dirt and leaves from around each plug well before pulling any coil.
7. Press the lock tab and unplug each ignition coil connector, then remove the single 10 mm bolt holding each coil and pull the coil straight up with a slight twist. Keep the coils in cylinder order.
8. Fit the 16 mm thin-wall plug socket with the appropriate extension, break each plug loose, and back it out. Lift the socket straight up so the plug doesn't drop out of the insert.
9. Compare the old plugs to the new ones: look for oil fouling, heavy ash, or a washer that stayed in the head.
10. Check the new plugs' gap reads about 0.043 in (1.1 mm). Do not pry or bend the iridium electrode. Do not apply anti-seize; Toyota plugs are plated and specify none.
11. Start each new plug by hand using a piece of rubber hose over the insulator, turning until it is finger tight against the washer. If it doesn't spin in freely, back it out and try again.
12. Tighten each plug with the torque wrench to 13 ft-lb (18 Nm). If you have no wrench that reads that low, snug it and add roughly a half turn past washer contact - but a torque wrench is far safer in aluminum.
13. Wipe each coil boot, put a thin smear of dielectric grease inside, reinstall each coil in its original hole, and torque the bolt to about 7 ft-lb. Click the connector fully home.
14. Reinstall the intake hose, breather, MAF connector and engine cover. Reconnect the battery.
15. Start the engine and let it idle a minute; listen for a misfire and check the coil connectors if the check engine light comes on.

Watch out

The 16 mm plug socket and 10 mm coil bolts are correct for both 2TR-FE and 1GR-FE across 2005-2015; confirm the plug torque and the exact Denso/NGK part number for your year and engine against the factory service manual or a parts catalog lookup.

Other jobs on the 2005-2015 Toyota Tacoma

Spark Plug Replacement on other vehicles