Tools you need for spark plugs on a 2012-2017 Toyota Camry

On the 2.5L four-cylinder XV50 Camry this is one of the easiest plug jobs Toyota ever built: cover off, four 10 mm coil bolts, four plugs, done in under an hour with basic hand tools. The hybrid 2AR-FXE is essentially identical mechanically, just with more plastic and wiring to move out of the way first.

The 3.5L 2GR-FE V6 is a different story. The front bank is simple, but the rear three plugs sit under the intake surge tank, so you are doing a partial intake teardown with new gaskets. The mistake people make on all versions is torque: these are long, thin iridium plugs in an aluminum head, so use a torque wrench at 18 ft-lb, skip the anti-seize, and don't lean on the little 10 mm coil bolts.

Complete tool and parts list

Differences within the 2012-2017 generation

All three engines use a 5/8 in (16 mm) plug hex, 10 mm coil bolts, and 18 ft-lb plug torque, so the hand tools are the same. The difference is access: the 2.5L 2AR-FE and hybrid 2AR-FXE need nothing beyond the cover and air duct, while the 3.5L 2GR-FE requires 12 mm and 14 mm sockets plus new intake manifold gaskets to reach the rear three plugs.

Torque specs

How the job goes

1. Park on level ground, let the engine cool completely, and disconnect the negative battery terminal (on the hybrid, switch off the READY light and wait before touching anything under the hood).
2. Remove the plastic engine cover: pull it straight up off its rubber grommets (2.5L) or remove the 10 mm nuts/clips as fitted.
3. 2.5L and hybrid: unclip and remove the air cleaner outlet duct if it blocks access, then unplug the four coil connectors by pressing the lock tab.
4. 2.5L and hybrid: remove the 10 mm bolt from each ignition coil and twist/pull the coil straight up out of the plug well.
5. 3.5L V6: remove the engine covers, air intake duct, and throttle body electrical connector, then label and disconnect the PCV, brake booster, and vacuum hoses and any coolant lines on the surge tank.
6. 3.5L V6: remove the surge tank/intake manifold bolts and nuts (12 mm, some 14 mm brackets), lift the manifold off, and cover the open intake ports with clean rags.
7. 3.5L V6: unplug and unbolt all six coils (10 mm) and set them aside in order.
8. Blow or vacuum dirt out of each plug well before loosening anything.
9. Break each plug loose with the 5/8 in thin-wall socket, extension, and ratchet, then remove it slowly; keep the socket straight in the tube so you don't crack the insulator.
10. Compare each old plug to the new one; check that the new plug's gap looks correct but do not pry on the iridium tip.
11. Install each new plug by hand with the socket and extension until finger tight, then torque to 18 ft-lb (25 Nm). No anti-seize and no thread sealer.
12. Wipe a thin film of dielectric grease inside each coil boot, reinstall the coils, and torque the 10 mm bolts to about 7 ft-lb (10 Nm). Do not overtighten these into aluminum.
13. Reconnect all coil connectors until they click, then reinstall the intake manifold with new gaskets (V6), reconnecting every hose and connector you removed.
14. Reinstall ducts and engine cover, reconnect the battery, start the engine, and let it idle; check for smooth running and no vacuum leak whistle or check engine light.
15. Take a short test drive and recheck that no hoses or connectors were left loose.

Watch out

The 10 mm coil bolts, 5/8 in (16 mm) plug hex, and 18 ft-lb plug torque are correct for the XV50 2AR-FE, 2AR-FXE, and 2GR-FE, but confirm your exact plug part number and the V6 intake manifold torque sequence in a Toyota service manual before assembly.

Other jobs on the 2012-2017 Toyota Camry

Spark Plug Replacement on other vehicles