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Tools you need for spark plugs on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150

Moderate · 1-2 hours (5.0 V8), 2-3 hours (3.5/2.7 EcoBoost) · Updated 2026-09-28
Must-have tools
  1. 9/16 in thin-wall magnetic plug socket
  2. 7 mm hex-head socket, 1/4 in drive
  3. 3/8 in torque wrench, 5-25 ft-lb
  4. 3/8 in drive extensions and swivel

On the 13th-gen F-150 this is a straightforward coil-on-plug job, but how long it takes depends entirely on which engine you have. The 5.0 V8 is the friendly one: pull the two plastic covers and all eight coils are right there. The 2.7 and 3.5 EcoBoost add charge-air tubing, brackets and coolant hoses that have to come loose first, and the rear bank on any of the V6 engines sits close enough to the firewall that you will want a wobble extension.

The thing people get wrong is the socket and the torque. These engines use a 9/16 in (14 mm) plug hex, not the 5/8 in from the old 4.6/5.4 modular trucks, and the plug torque is roughly 13 ft-lb into an aluminum head - about a third of what many people guess. Work only on a stone-cold engine, skip the anti-seize on the factory plated threads, and never try to re-gap a fine-wire iridium plug.

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Complete tool and parts list

ItemType
Socket set, 3/8 in drive
8, 10, 13 mm sockets
Removes engine covers, charge-air duct clamps, ground straps and brackets to reach the coils.
Requiredshop
Ratchet, 1/4 in drive
With 3 in and 6 in extensions
Coil bolts are small and in tight spots; a 1/4 in ratchet fits best.
Requiredshop
Hex-head coil bolt socket
7 mm (some coils use 8 mm), 1/4 in drive
Removes the single hold-down bolt on each ignition coil.
Requiredshop
Trim/panel pry tool set
Nylon
Pops the plastic engine cover pins and cowl/wiper trim clips without breaking them.
Recommendedshop
Spark plug socket
9/16 in (14 mm) thin-wall magnetic or rubber-insert, 3/8 in drive
The plug hex on 2.7/3.5 EcoBoost and 5.0 V8 is 9/16 in; thin wall is needed for the deep wells.
Requiredshop
Spark plug socket
5/8 in (16 mm) magnetic, 3/8 in drive
Needed if your engine (3.3 V6 / some Cyclone-family heads) uses the larger 5/8 in plug hex - check one plug first.
Recommendedshop
Extensions, 3/8 in drive
3 in, 6 in, 10 in, plus wobble/swivel adapter
Reaches deep plug wells and clears the intake and firewall on the V6 rear cylinders.
Requiredshop
Universal joint / swivel socket adapter
3/8 in drive
Lets you get straight enough on the rear plugs of the V6 engines.
Recommendedshop
Torque wrench
3/8 in drive, 5-80 ft-lb range
Plugs go into aluminum heads at a low, exact torque - overtightening strips threads.
Requiredshop
Torque wrench, in-lb
1/4 in drive, 20-200 in-lb
Coil bolts and small brackets are an inch-pound spec, not foot-pounds.
Recommendedshop
Compressed air or vacuum with nozzle
Blow gun
Clears dirt and leaves out of the plug wells before removing plugs so nothing falls in the cylinder.
Recommendedshop
Gap gauge
Wire-loop or coin type
Only to verify the factory gap on a suspect plug - do not bend fine-wire iridium tips.
Recommendedshop
Hose clamp pliers / flat screwdriver
For spring and worm clamps on charge-air hoses
EcoBoost intercooler and turbo plumbing must come loose to reach several coils.
Recommendedshop
Spark plugs
Motorcraft per engine: 5.0 V8 (8), 3.5/3.3 V6 (6), 2.7 V6 (6) - buy by VIN
Correct heat range and reach; EcoBoost plugs are engine-specific and pre-gapped.
Partsshop
Dielectric grease
Silicone
Thin film inside each coil boot so it does not stick or arc next time.
Consumablesshop
Brake or electrical parts cleaner
Aerosol
Cleans oil and grit off the valve cover and coil boots.
Consumablesshop
Shop towels

Keeps debris out of open plug holes and cleans up oil in coil wells.
Consumablesshop
Nitrile gloves and safety glasses

Debris blows out of plug wells and hot manifolds are close by.
Safetyshop

Differences within the 2015-2020 generation

2.7 EcoBoost, 3.5 EcoBoost and 5.0 V8 all use a 9/16 in (14 mm) plug hex with a 7 mm hex-head coil bolt; the 3.3 NA V6 may use a 5/8 in (16 mm) plug hex, so pull one plug and check before buying. EcoBoost engines additionally require removing intercooler/charge-air ducting that the 5.0 does not, and the V6 engines have far tighter rear-bank access than the V8.

Torque specs

Spark plugs (2.7/3.5 EcoBoost, 5.0 V8, aluminum head)about 13 ft-lb (18 Nm) - verify in the service manual for your engine
Ignition coil hold-down boltabout 53 in-lb (6 Nm) - verify in the service manual
Plastic engine cover / charge-air duct boltsverify in the service manual (hand-snug, low in-lb)

How the job goes

  1. Let the engine cool completely. Hot aluminum heads are the number one cause of stripped plug threads.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable (10 mm nut) and set the cable aside. No battery registration is needed on this truck.
  3. Remove the plastic engine cover(s): 5.0 V8 covers pull off ball studs or use 8/10 mm bolts; EcoBoost covers pull straight up off rubber grommets.
  4. On 2.7/3.5 EcoBoost, loosen the clamps and remove the charge-air/intercooler tube and any resonator or coolant hose bracket blocking coil access. Cap or cover the open intake to keep debris out.
  5. On 3.3/3.5 V6 engines, if the rear bank plugs are unreachable, remove the cowl vent panel/wiper arm trim or loosen the intake manifold cover per the manual to gain clearance.
  6. Blow or vacuum dirt out of each coil well and off the valve cover before pulling anything.
  7. Work one cylinder at a time. Unclip the coil connector (press the red/black lock tab, do not pry the wire), remove the 7 mm coil bolt, then twist and pull the coil straight up. If it sticks, twist the boot free rather than levering on the plastic body.
  8. Blow out the plug well again, then break the plug loose with the 9/16 in plug socket, extension and ratchet. If it feels gritty coming out, stop, blow it out and continue slowly.
  9. Remove the plug with the magnetic or rubber-insert socket so it does not drop. Inspect it: oil on the threads means a leaking valve cover or tube seal; white or melted tips on an EcoBoost mean run rich/lean or detonation issues worth investigating.
  10. Compare the new plug to the old one for reach and hex size. Do not adjust the gap on fine-wire iridium plugs; check it only with a wire gauge if you suspect shipping damage.
  11. Install the new plug by hand or with a socket and no ratchet until it seats, then torque to about 13 ft-lb. Do not use anti-seize on the plated threads; do not use thread sealant.
  12. Put a pea-sized dab of dielectric grease inside the coil boot, press the coil down until it seats fully on the plug, install the bolt at about 53 in-lb, and click the connector back on until it latches.
  13. Repeat for all cylinders, then reinstall the charge-air plumbing, brackets, cowl trim and engine covers. Double-check every hose clamp on the EcoBoost - a loose charge pipe sets boost codes.
  14. Reconnect the battery, start the engine, and let it idle a minute. Expect a brief rough idle/relearn. Test drive and confirm no misfire codes.

Watch out

The 9/16 in (14 mm) plug hex and 7 mm coil bolt are correct for the 2.7/3.5 EcoBoost and 5.0 V8 in this generation; check one plug before buying a socket for the 3.3 V6, and confirm the exact plug torque for your engine in the Ford service manual since it is a low value into aluminum.

Frequently asked

What size spark plug socket does a 2015-2020 F-150 need?

A 9/16 in (14 mm) thin-wall magnetic spark plug socket covers the 2.7 EcoBoost, 3.5 EcoBoost and 5.0 V8. The 3.3 V6 may take a 5/8 in (16 mm) socket, so check one plug first. You will also want 3 in, 6 in and 10 in extensions plus a wobble adapter.

How often should F-150 spark plugs be changed?

Ford generally calls for around 60,000 miles on the turbocharged 2.7 and 3.5 EcoBoost and up to about 100,000 miles on the 5.0 V8 and 3.3 V6. Tuned or heavily towed EcoBoost trucks commonly benefit from 40,000-50,000 mile intervals. Check the maintenance schedule for your exact year.

How much torque do F-150 spark plugs take?

Roughly 13 ft-lb (18 Nm) into the aluminum head - verify the exact figure for your engine in the service manual. Use a torque wrench; overtightening strips the head threads and undertightening causes misfires and blow-by.

Do I need to remove the intercooler pipes on an EcoBoost to change the plugs?

Yes, on the 2.7 and 3.5 EcoBoost you need to loosen or remove the charge-air ducting and a few brackets to get straight access to several coils. Cover the open intake while it is off, and make sure every clamp and boot is fully seated on reassembly or you will get boost-related codes.

Other jobs on the 2015-2020 Ford F-150

Oil ChangeFront Brake Pads and RotorsRear Brake Pads and RotorsBattery ReplacementAlternator ReplacementStarter ReplacementCoolant FlushSerpentine Belt ReplacementTire RotationHeadlight Bulb ReplacementWiper Blade ReplacementThermostat ReplacementFront Strut ReplacementCabin Air Filter ReplacementEngine Air Filter ReplacementTransmission Fluid ChangeFront Wheel Bearing ReplacementOxygen Sensor ReplacementWater Pump Replacement

Spark Plug Replacement on other vehicles

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