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Tools you need for alternator on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150

Moderate · 1.5-3 hours · Updated 2026-09-28
Must-have tools
  1. Serpentine belt tensioner tool, 3/8 in drive
  2. 13 mm socket, 3/8 in drive
  3. 10 mm socket, 3/8 in drive (B+ nut)
  4. 8 mm socket for battery terminals
  5. Torque wrench, 3/8 in drive

On the aluminum-body F-150 the alternator is mounted high on the passenger side and is one of the friendlier charging-system jobs in a modern truck. The 5.0 V8 and the 3.3/3.5 naturally aspirated V6 give you enough room to work almost entirely from above with a 3/8 in ratchet, a few extensions and a belt tool. The 2.7 and 3.5 EcoBoost are tighter: the intercooler plumbing, coolant degas bottle and air deflectors crowd the area, so plan on 20-30 extra minutes of parts removal on each end of the job.

The two things people get wrong are the belt and the B+ stud. Take a photo of the serpentine routing before you release the tensioner, because these engines have several idlers and a belt one groove off will shred fast. And torque the B+ output nut with an inch-pound wrench rather than reefing on it with a ratchet, since over-torquing that stud cracks the regulator housing and causes intermittent no-charge faults. Also confirm whether your 3.5 EcoBoost truck was built with the dual-alternator option before you order a part.

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Complete tool and parts list

ItemType
Socket set, 3/8 in drive
8, 10, 13, 15, 18 mm 6-point sockets
Battery terminals, B+ output nut, alternator mounting bolts and tensioner/idler bolts.
Requiredshop
Ratchet, 3/8 in drive
Standard and stubby
Main driver for all fasteners; stubby helps in the tight EcoBoost bay.
Requiredshop
Extension set
3, 6 and 10 in, 3/8 in drive
Reaches the lower alternator bolt and B+ terminal behind the accessory bracket.
Requiredshop
Swivel / wobble extension
3/8 in drive universal joint
Angles the ratchet onto the rear alternator bolt without removing more parts.
Recommendedshop
Serpentine belt tool
Long-handle belt tool kit with 3/8 in drive and 15/18 mm crowfoot sockets
Rotates the spring-loaded belt tensioner to release the serpentine belt.
Requiredshop
Breaker bar
3/8 in drive, 18 in
Alternative to a belt tool for swinging the tensioner if you have clearance.
Recommendedshop
Torque wrench
3/8 in drive, 5-80 ft-lb
Alternator bolts thread into aluminum brackets and must not be overtightened.
Requiredshop
In-lb torque wrench
1/4 in drive, 20-200 in-lb
For the B+ output stud nut, which is a low-torque spec.
Recommendedshop
Trim / panel pry tool set
Plastic
Pops the intake duct clips, engine cover and wiring harness retainers without breaking them.
Recommendedshop
Flat screwdriver set
Small and medium flat blade
Releases the plastic locking tab on the alternator regulator connector and loosens duct clamps.
Requiredshop
Nut driver or 7 mm socket
7 mm / 5/16 in for worm-drive hose clamps
Loosens intake duct and degas bottle hose clamps on EcoBoost trucks.
Recommendedshop
Flashlight / headlamp
LED
The lower mounting bolt and belt routing are hard to see from above.
Recommendedshop
Phone camera

Photograph the belt routing before removal; the 2.7/3.5 EcoBoost routing is easy to get wrong.
Recommendedshop
Multimeter
DC volts
Confirm the old unit is bad and verify 13.5-14.8 V charging after the swap.
Recommendedshop
Serpentine belt
Engine-specific; replace if cracked or over 100k miles
The belt is already off, and a glazed belt will squeal on the new pulley.
Partsshop
Alternator
Engine-specific; 150/200 A, note dual-alternator option on 3.5 EcoBoost
The replacement unit; match amperage and connector to your build.
Partsshop
Battery terminal brush or cleaner

Clean the negative post and cable before reconnecting.
Consumablesshop
Dielectric grease
Small tube
Protects the B+ stud and regulator connector from corrosion.
Consumablesshop
Safety glasses

Debris falls from the belt area when reaching over the engine.
Safetyshop
Nitrile gloves

Keeps hands off hot exhaust residue and dirty belt dust.
Safetyshop

Differences within the 2015-2020 generation

2.7 and 3.5 EcoBoost need the intake duct, coolant degas bottle bracket and often an intercooler air deflector removed first, which adds 7 mm hose-clamp and 8/10 mm bracket fasteners; the 5.0 V8 and 3.3/3.5 NA V6 usually only need the intake duct and engine cover. Mounting bolts are 13 mm on most builds but some brackets use 15 mm, and the belt tensioner takes either a 15/18 mm hex or a 3/8 in square drive depending on the tensioner supplier. 3.5 EcoBoost trucks with the heavy-duty/upfitter package can have two alternators with different mounting hardware and cabling.

Torque specs

Alternator mounting bolts (M8, most engines)18 ft-lb (25 Nm) - verify in the service manual
B+ output terminal nut89 in-lb (10 Nm) - verify in the service manual
Battery negative terminal clamp71 in-lb (8 Nm) - verify in the service manual
Belt tensioner mounting boltverify in the service manual
Engine appearance cover / intake duct boltsverify in the service manual

How the job goes

  1. Park on level ground, set the parking brake, let the engine cool and open the hood.
  2. Disconnect the battery negative cable (8 mm, some builds 10 mm) and tuck it aside so it cannot spring back onto the post.
  3. Remove the engine appearance cover and the air intake duct between the airbox and throttle body. On 2.7/3.5 EcoBoost also unbolt or unclip the coolant degas bottle bracket and any intercooler air deflector shielding the alternator.
  4. Photograph the serpentine belt routing, including which side of each idler the belt runs on.
  5. Fit the serpentine belt tool or a breaker bar to the tensioner arm, rotate to release tension, slip the belt off the alternator pulley, then let the tensioner back down slowly.
  6. Unclip the plastic lock and pull the regulator/voltage-sense connector off the back of the alternator.
  7. Pull back the rubber boot on the B+ stud, remove the nut (10 mm) and lift the heavy charge cable off the stud.
  8. Free any wiring harness clips or small brackets attached to the alternator body.
  9. Remove the alternator mounting bolts (13 mm on most builds, 15 mm on some brackets). Support the alternator as the last bolt comes out.
  10. Work the alternator up and out of the engine bay; on EcoBoost trucks it may need to rotate and come out toward the front of the truck.
  11. Compare old and new units: pulley diameter and type, connector shape, stud location and amperage rating.
  12. Set the new alternator in place, start all mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading the aluminum bracket, then torque them.
  13. Reconnect the B+ cable and torque the nut to spec, reseat the boot, then plug in the regulator connector until it clicks. Add a light film of dielectric grease.
  14. Route the serpentine belt per your photo, load the tensioner, seat the belt fully in every groove, then release the tensioner and verify the belt is centered on each pulley.
  15. Reinstall the intake duct, degas bottle bracket, air deflector and engine cover.
  16. Reconnect the battery negative cable and torque it.
  17. Start the engine, check for squeal or wobble, then measure battery voltage at idle: it should read roughly 13.5-14.8 V. Let it idle a few minutes so the battery monitoring sensor relearns.

Watch out

Mounting hardware on this generation is almost always 13 mm with a 10 mm B+ nut and 8 mm battery terminals, but a few brackets use 15 mm and tensioner tools vary between 15 mm, 18 mm and 3/8 in square drive, so test-fit before committing and confirm torque values against the Ford workshop manual for your exact engine.

Frequently asked

How do I know the alternator and not the battery is bad on my F-150?

With the engine running at idle, battery voltage should be about 13.5-14.8 V; a reading near 12.4 V or below with the engine running points at the alternator or its wiring. A no-charge code, a battery light, or dimming lights that change with engine rpm all point the same way, but load-test the battery too since a failing battery can trip charging faults.

Do I need to reset or register anything after replacing the alternator?

No registration is required like on some European cars, but the 2015-2020 F-150 uses a battery monitoring sensor on the negative cable that relearns state of charge over time. Let the truck idle for several minutes and drive it normally; if you also replaced the battery, a BMS reset with a capable scan tool such as FORScan is worth doing.

Do I have to remove the serpentine belt to replace the alternator?

Yes. Rotate the spring-loaded tensioner with a serpentine belt tool or breaker bar to slip the belt off the alternator pulley. Photograph the routing first and inspect the belt while it is off, since it is only a few dollars more to replace it while you are there.

Why does my 3.5 EcoBoost have two alternators?

Ford offered a dual-alternator setup on 3.5 EcoBoost trucks ordered with the heavy-duty electrical or upfitter/police packages to support added loads. Verify which unit is faulty before ordering, and check the amperage and connector type against your build sticker or VIN.

Other jobs on the 2015-2020 Ford F-150

Oil ChangeFront Brake Pads and RotorsRear Brake Pads and RotorsBattery ReplacementSpark Plug ReplacementStarter ReplacementCoolant FlushSerpentine Belt ReplacementTire RotationHeadlight Bulb ReplacementWiper Blade ReplacementThermostat ReplacementFront Strut ReplacementCabin Air Filter ReplacementEngine Air Filter ReplacementTransmission Fluid ChangeFront Wheel Bearing ReplacementOxygen Sensor ReplacementWater Pump Replacement

Alternator Replacement on other vehicles

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