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Tools you need for serpentine belt on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150

Easy · 45 minutes - 1.5 hours · Updated 2026-09-28
Must-have tools
  1. Serpentine belt tool, long 3/8 in breaker bar
  2. 15 mm socket or wrench for tensioner
  3. 3/8 in drive ratchet and extensions
  4. 8 mm socket for shroud/cover bolts

On the 13th-gen F-150 this is one of the easiest jobs on the truck, but access is what decides how long it takes. The 5.0 V8 is the friendliest once you pull the plastic engine cover and the upper fan shroud cover, which gives you a clear shot straight down at the tensioner. The 2.7 and 3.5 EcoBoost bury the tensioner low and behind charge-air piping, so a long flex-head belt tool or a breaker bar with a wobble extension does far more for you than a standard ratchet.

Most people get two things wrong. First, they don't photograph the routing before the belt comes off, then spend 20 minutes guessing which idlers ride on the smooth back side. Second, they don't verify the belt is fully seated in the crankshaft pulley, which you can't see without a mirror and light - a belt one groove off will shred within a couple of miles. While the belt is off, spend two minutes spinning every pulley by hand; a growling tensioner or idler bearing is the usual reason the new belt starts chirping a week later.

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Complete tool and parts list

ItemType
Wheel chocks

Keeps the truck from rolling while you work at the front of the engine.
Safetyshop
Mechanic's gloves

Protects hands when reaching between pulleys and sharp aluminum brackets.
Safetyshop
Phone camera or paper

Photograph or sketch the belt routing before removal; the diagram decal is often missing.
Recommendedshop
Socket set, 3/8 in drive
8, 10, 13, 15, 18 mm 6-point
Covers shroud, cover and charge-pipe bolts plus the tensioner and idler pulley bolts.
Requiredshop
Ratchet, 3/8 in drive
Long-handle, 10-14 in
Main driver for the tensioner and the fasteners in front of the engine.
Requiredshop
Extension set, 3/8 in drive
3, 6 and 12 in plus wobble extension
Reaches the tensioner and lower idler past the fan and radiator support.
Requiredshop
Serpentine belt tool kit
Long 18-24 in flex-head bar with 3/8 in, 1/2 in square drive and 13/14/15/16/18 mm crowfoot sockets
Gives the reach and leverage to swing the tensioner where a normal ratchet will not fit.
Requiredshop
Breaker bar
3/8 in or 1/2 in drive, 18 in
Alternative to the belt tool for rotating the tensioner arm on EcoBoost engines.
Recommendedshop
Combination wrench
15 mm and 18 mm
Fits the tensioner pulley bolt hex when there is no room for a socket.
Recommendedshop
Torx driver set
T25 / T30
Some engine cover, air box and shroud clips use Torx on these trucks.
Recommendedshop
Flat blade screwdriver / trim tool

Releases air intake tube clips, push pins and coolant hose retainers.
Recommendedshop
Flat blade or nut-driver for hose clamps
7 mm or 8 mm nut driver
Loosens the intake/charge pipe worm clamps on EcoBoost engines.
Recommendedshop
Torque wrench
3/8 in drive, 10-80 ft-lb
Reinstalls the tensioner or idler pulley bolt correctly if you removed one.
Recommendedshop
Inspection mirror and flashlight
LED
Confirms the belt is fully seated in every pulley groove, especially the hidden crank pulley.
Recommendedshop
Belt wear gauge
For K-section EPDM belts
Tells you whether the old belt or a used spare is actually worn out.
Recommendedshop
Serpentine belt
Correct length for your engine: 2.7 EB, 3.3 V6, 3.5 EB and 5.0 V8 all use different belts; match by VIN
The replacement belt itself.
Partsshop
Belt tensioner assembly
Engine-specific; check for rough bearing or weak spring
Common wear item; replace with the belt if the pulley is noisy or the arm is loose.
Partsshop
Idler pulley
Engine-specific
Replace if it wheezes, wobbles or the bearing feels gritty by hand.
Partsshop
Brake cleaner or belt dressing-free degreaser
Non-residue aerosol
Cleans oil or coolant off pulley grooves so the new belt does not slip or chirp.
Consumablesshop
Shop rags

Wiping pulleys and catching debris.
Consumablesshop

Differences within the 2015-2020 generation

Tensioner fitting is engine and date dependent: most 5.0 V8 and 3.3/3.5 V6 tensioners take a 15 mm hex on the pulley bolt, some take 18 mm, and several tensioner arms have a 3/8 in square hole for a breaker bar - check yours before buying a tool. Access differs too: the 5.0 needs the engine cover and upper fan shroud cover off (8 and 10 mm), while 2.7 and 3.5 EcoBoost trucks need the air intake tube and sometimes a charge-air pipe or degas bottle bracket loosened (7/8 mm clamps, 10 and 13 mm bolts). Belt length differs for every engine in this generation, so order by VIN.

Torque specs

Belt tensioner assembly mounting boltverify in the service manual
Idler pulley boltverify in the service manual
Fan shroud / upper radiator cover boltsHand tight, roughly 7-9 ft-lb (10-12 Nm) - verify in the service manual
Charge air / intake tube clamps (EcoBoost)verify in the service manual

How the job goes

  1. Park on level ground, set the parking brake, chock a rear wheel and let the engine cool completely. Pulleys and the radiator get hot enough to burn.
  2. Open the hood and photograph the existing belt routing from several angles. Note which pulleys the belt wraps on the grooved side and which idlers ride on the smooth back side.
  3. Remove what is in the way. 5.0 V8: pull the plastic engine cover and the upper fan shroud / radiator cover (8 mm and 10 mm bolts plus push pins) for straight-down access to the tensioner. 2.7/3.5 EcoBoost: remove the air intake tube and, if needed, loosen the charge-air pipe or degas bottle bracket in front of the tensioner. 3.3 V6: usually only the intake tube needs to come off.
  4. Disconnect the battery only if you will be working near the alternator terminal; it is not required for a straight belt swap.
  5. Fit the belt tool or a long ratchet to the tensioner. Most of these engines take a 15 mm hex on the tensioner pulley bolt, some take 18 mm, and some tensioner arms have a 3/8 in square hole for a breaker bar - try the square hole first if you see one.
  6. Rotate the tensioner arm in the direction that releases spring pressure (it will move only one way, typically clockwise as viewed from the front on the 5.0). Hold it there.
  7. Slip the belt off the easiest accessible smooth idler, then slowly let the tensioner return to rest.
  8. Work the belt off the remaining pulleys and out of the engine bay. On EcoBoost trucks you may need to feed it up past the fan and charge piping; on the 5.0 it comes out over the top once the shroud cover is off.
  9. Spin every pulley by hand: alternator, idlers, tensioner, A/C compressor and water pump. Listen for growl and feel for wobble or roughness. Replace any noisy pulley and the tensioner now while the belt is off.
  10. Check the tensioner arm for excessive free play and make sure the arm returns firmly. Wipe oil, coolant residue and grit out of the pulley grooves with a rag and non-residue cleaner.
  11. Compare old and new belts side by side for length and rib count before installing. Route the new belt onto all pulleys except one easy-reach idler, matching your photos exactly.
  12. Pull the tensioner off its stop again, slide the belt over the last idler, and release the tensioner slowly so it takes up tension.
  13. Verify with a light and mirror that every rib is seated in every groove, including the crankshaft pulley at the bottom. A belt riding one groove off will shred within minutes.
  14. Reinstall the shroud cover, intake tube, clamps and engine cover. Make sure no tool, rag or clip is left in the belt path.
  15. Start the engine and let it idle for a minute. Look for the belt tracking straight and listen for chirp or squeal, then rev lightly and switch on the A/C and headlights to load the system. Recheck belt seating after a short test drive.

Watch out

The 15 mm tensioner hex, 8/10 mm cover bolts and 3/8 in square-drive option cover the great majority of 2015-2020 F-150 engines, but the tensioner fitting varies by engine and production date, so check your tensioner bolt with a 15 mm and an 18 mm before buying a tool, and confirm belt part number and any torque values against the Ford service manual or your VIN.

Frequently asked

What size socket turns the belt tensioner on a 2015-2020 F-150?

Most of these engines use a 15 mm hex on the tensioner pulley bolt, with some units taking 18 mm and others providing a 3/8 in square hole for a breaker bar. Check your tensioner with both sizes before buying a tool, and use a long flex-head belt tool on the EcoBoost engines because clearance is tight.

Do I have to remove the fan or radiator to change the belt?

No. On the 5.0 V8 you only need the plastic engine cover and the upper fan shroud/radiator cover off. On the 2.7 and 3.5 EcoBoost you generally only remove the air intake tube and possibly loosen a charge-air pipe or the degas bottle bracket.

How do I know which way to rotate the tensioner?

It only moves one way off its stop - if it feels solid, you are pushing against the stop. On the 5.0 it typically swings clockwise as viewed from the front of the engine; apply steady pressure and it will release the belt.

How often should the belt be replaced on a 13th-gen F-150?

Modern EPDM belts don't crack like old rubber ones, they lose rib material, so inspect with a belt wear gauge rather than looking for cracks. Most owners replace around 90,000-120,000 miles, or sooner if there is chirping, glazing, missing chunks or a noisy tensioner.

Other jobs on the 2015-2020 Ford F-150

Oil ChangeFront Brake Pads and RotorsRear Brake Pads and RotorsBattery ReplacementSpark Plug ReplacementAlternator ReplacementStarter ReplacementCoolant FlushTire RotationHeadlight Bulb ReplacementWiper Blade ReplacementThermostat ReplacementFront Strut ReplacementCabin Air Filter ReplacementEngine Air Filter ReplacementTransmission Fluid ChangeFront Wheel Bearing ReplacementOxygen Sensor ReplacementWater Pump Replacement

Serpentine Belt Replacement on other vehicles

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