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Tools you need for rear brakes on a 2009-2018 Ram 1500

Moderate · 1.5-2 hours · Updated 2026-09-28
Must-have tools
  1. 22 mm lug nut socket, 1/2 in drive
  2. 13 mm socket, 3/8 in drive
  3. 18 mm socket, 1/2 in drive
  4. Caliper piston compressor or C-clamp
  5. Torque wrench, 1/2 in drive

On the 2009-2018 Ram 1500 the rear brakes are straightforward sliding calipers - two 13 mm guide pin bolts and the pads drop out - but the rotor is the part that catches people. The hat has a drum machined into it for the foot-operated parking brake, so if the shoes are worn into a ridge or the adjuster has crept out, the rotor will not slide off no matter how hard you hit it. Back the star wheel off through the access hole first and it comes right off.

Nothing here changes with the engine; a 3.6 Pentastar, 4.7, 5.7 Hemi and 3.0 EcoDiesel all share the same rear setup, though heavier payload packages and 2013+ trucks got slightly larger rotors. The other thing people get wrong is ignoring the parking brake shoes entirely - you are already in there, so look at the lining and hardware, and readjust the star wheel before you put the wheel back on. There is no electronic parking brake on this truck, so no scan tool service mode is needed.

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Complete tool and parts list

ItemType
Wheel chocks
Pair, placed at front wheels
Keeps the truck from rolling with the rear off the ground and the park brake released.
Safetyshop
Floor jack
2.5-ton minimum, long reach
Lifts the rear axle at the differential or axle tube.
Requiredshop
Jack stands
3-ton pair
Supports the truck under the axle or frame rails while you work.
Safetyshop
Lug nut socket
22 mm, 6-point, 1/2 in drive (deep)
Removes the rear wheels; 22 mm on all DS Ram 1500 steel and alloy wheels.
Requiredshop
Breaker bar
1/2 in drive, 18-24 in
Breaks loose 130 ft-lb lug nuts and the seized caliper bracket bolts.
Requiredshop
Socket wrench set
3/8 in drive ratchet with 13 mm and 15 mm sockets
Caliper guide pin bolts are 13 mm on most trucks; some late builds and remans take 15 mm.
Requiredshop
Socket
18 mm 6-point, 1/2 in drive (21 mm on some builds)
Removes the two caliper mounting bracket bolts from the axle flange.
Requiredshop
Wire brush
Steel, hand size
Cleans rust off the hub face and bracket slide areas so the new rotor seats flat.
Requiredshop
Caliper piston compressor
Large C-clamp or brake pad spreader (straight push, not screw-in)
Pushes the single rear piston back into the caliper; the DS rear piston does not screw in.
Requiredshop
Brake spoon or long flat screwdriver
Star-wheel adjusting spoon
Backs off the parking brake shoe adjuster through the access hole so the rotor clears the shoes.
Requiredshop
Dead-blow or 3 lb hammer
Non-marring or sledge with block
Frees rust-bonded rotors from the hub face.
Requiredshop
Bungee cord or wire hook
Short
Hangs the caliper from the coil spring or frame so the brake hose isn't stretched.
Recommendedshop
Wire brush drill attachment
Cup brush, 2-3 in
Fast cleanup of the hub flange and rotor hat mating surface.
Recommendedshop
Torque wrench
1/2 in drive, 20-150 ft-lb
Sets lug nuts to 130 ft-lb and the bracket bolts to spec.
Requiredshop
Torque wrench (small)
3/8 in drive, 10-80 ft-lb
Accurate torque on the smaller caliper guide pin bolts.
Recommendedshop
Brake parts cleaner
Non-chlorinated, 2 cans
Removes the protective oil coating from new rotors and cleans the dust off the backing plate.
Consumablesshop
Silicone brake caliper grease
High-temp synthetic, for guide pins and pad ears
Lubricates the guide pins, boots and abutment clips so the caliper slides freely.
Consumablesshop
Anti-seize compound
Nickel or copper, small tube
Thin film on the hub face stops the new rotor from rust-welding on.
Consumablesshop
Rear brake pads
DS Ram 1500 rear set (semi-met or ceramic)
The wear item being replaced.
Partsshop
Rear rotors
Pair, 13.8 in vented with integral park brake drum
Rear rotors on this truck include the parking brake drum surface.
Partsshop
Brake fluid
DOT 3
Top off the master cylinder if needed after pushing the pistons back.
Consumablesshop
Safety glasses and nitrile gloves

Brake dust and cleaner spray.
Safetyshop
Dust mask
N95
Avoid breathing brake dust when cleaning the drum area and backing plate.
Safetyshop

Differences within the 2009-2018 generation

Tool sizes are identical across the 3.6, 4.7, 5.7 and 3.0 EcoDiesel - the rear axle and caliper hardware do not change with the engine. Rotor diameter grew slightly on 2013+ and heavy-payload trucks, so order rotors by VIN, not by engine. Trucks with the optional rear air suspension need service mode before lifting; that is the only trim-specific difference.

Torque specs

Wheel lug nuts130 ft-lb (176 Nm)
Rear caliper guide pin (slide) boltsApprox. 24 ft-lb (32 Nm) - verify in the service manual
Rear caliper mounting bracket to axle boltsApprox. 130 ft-lb (176 Nm) - verify in the service manual
Brake hose banjo bolt (only if hose removed)verify in the service manual

How the job goes

  1. If the truck has the optional air suspension, use the EVIC/Uconnect menu to put the system in Service or Transport mode (or pull the air suspension fuse) before lifting, or the compressor will fight the jack.
  2. Chock the front wheels, loosen the rear lug nuts a half turn with the truck on the ground, then jack the rear axle and set jack stands under the axle tubes or frame.
  3. Remove both rear wheels. Release the parking brake pedal fully.
  4. Pop the master cylinder cap loose (or just check level) so pushing the piston back doesn't force fluid past the seals under pressure; wipe up any overflow.
  5. Remove the two caliper guide pin bolts (13 mm, some 15 mm) on the inboard side of the caliper. Lift the caliper off and hang it with a bungee cord - never let it hang on the hose.
  6. Slide the old pads out of the bracket and note where the abutment clips sit.
  7. Compress the caliper piston fully with a C-clamp or spreader, using an old pad as a pressure plate. This piston pushes straight in; do not try to twist it.
  8. Remove the two caliper bracket bolts (18 mm, 21 mm on some builds) with a breaker bar and lift the bracket off.
  9. Try the rotor. If it will not come off, look for the rubber plug or slot in the rotor hat/backing plate and back off the parking brake shoe star-wheel adjuster with a brake spoon until the rotor clears the shoes.
  10. If the rotor is rust-bonded, hit the hat between the studs with a dead-blow, or thread two bolts into the threaded relief holes and jack it off. Never hammer the friction surface.
  11. With the rotor off, inspect the parking brake shoes and hardware for wear, grease contamination or broken springs, and blow the dust out with brake cleaner. Replace shoes now if the lining is under about 1 mm or the drum is scored.
  12. Wire-brush the hub flange until bare metal, then wipe with brake cleaner and apply a very thin film of anti-seize to the flange only - not to the stud threads or the rotor face.
  13. Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner to strip the shipping oil, then install it and snug it with a couple of lug nuts to hold it flat.
  14. Clean the caliper bracket, install fresh abutment clips if supplied, and apply a thin smear of silicone brake grease to the pad ear contact points.
  15. Bolt the bracket back on and torque it. Install the pads with the wear sensor (if fitted) in the correct position.
  16. Clean and grease the guide pins, check the boots for tears, and slide them in. Fit the caliper over the pads and torque the guide pin bolts.
  17. Re-adjust the parking brake star wheel until the rotor just drags, then back it off a few clicks until it spins free.
  18. Repeat on the other side, then pump the brake pedal 5-10 times until it is firm before moving the truck. Top the master cylinder to the full mark with DOT 3.
  19. Refit the wheels, lower the truck, and torque the lug nuts to 130 ft-lb in a star pattern.
  20. Set and release the parking brake several times to self-adjust, then bed the pads in: 8-10 moderate stops from 40 to 10 mph, then drive a few miles without hard braking or holding the pedal at a stop.
  21. Re-check lug torque after about 50 miles.

Watch out

Lug nuts (22 mm, 130 ft-lb) and the 13 mm guide pin bolts are solid for this generation; the caliper bracket bolt is 18 mm on most trucks but some builds and replacement brackets use 21 mm, and caliper bolt torques should be confirmed against the FSM for your year.

Frequently asked

Why won't the rear rotor come off my Ram 1500?

Almost always the parking brake shoes inside the rotor hat. Find the rubber plug or slot in the rotor face or backing plate and back off the star-wheel adjuster with a brake spoon, then the rotor will slide over the shoes. Rust bonding at the hub flange is the other cause - tap the hat between the studs with a dead-blow.

What size are the rear caliper bolts on a 2009-2018 Ram 1500?

The caliper guide pin bolts are 13 mm (a few builds and reman calipers use 15 mm), and the two caliper bracket bolts into the axle flange are 18 mm, with 21 mm found on some builds. Lug nuts are 22 mm.

Do I have to screw the rear piston in like on some cars?

No. Because the parking brake uses separate shoes inside the rotor hat, the rear caliper piston pushes straight in with a C-clamp or spreader. Twisting it will only damage the piston and boot.

What is the lug nut torque on a Ram 1500?

130 ft-lb (176 Nm) in a star pattern for the DS-generation 1500. Torque them with the truck on the ground and re-check after about 50 miles.

Other jobs on the 2009-2018 Ram 1500

Oil ChangeFront Brake Pads and RotorsBattery ReplacementSpark Plug ReplacementAlternator ReplacementStarter ReplacementCoolant FlushSerpentine Belt ReplacementTire RotationHeadlight Bulb ReplacementWiper Blade ReplacementThermostat ReplacementFront Strut ReplacementCabin Air Filter ReplacementEngine Air Filter ReplacementTransmission Fluid ChangeFront Wheel Bearing ReplacementOxygen Sensor ReplacementWater Pump Replacement

Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on other vehicles

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